THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



in the year when most trees are not 

 bearing. The tendency is where a part 

 of the fruit is removed to annual bear- 

 ing. Winter pruning tends to produce 

 wood, whereas summer pruning does 

 not. 



Dr. Loope asked what time of the 

 year he should prune his young orchard. 



The Professor replied : " For my own 

 section of country, 1 would prune from 

 now to spring, but would not dare to 

 say that it would do in this climate to 

 prune at this season of the year." 



E. C. Alsmeyer read a paper entitled 

 " Prospects for Wisconsin Nurserymen," 

 in which he recommended a combina- 

 tion to keep up the prices of nursery 

 stock, as it cost more to grow a six ft 

 tree than they had been selling for. 



Mr. Read recommended the educa- 

 tion of the farmer to the planting of 

 smaller trees, as they could be produced 

 at a less cost, and would make much 

 better trees in from three to five years 

 from planting. 



Mr. Wedge said that he believed in 

 heretical ideas in some things, was a 

 believer in free trade, but when it came 

 to nursery stock believed in protection, 

 the southern and eastern grown trees 

 had been a great damage to the tree 

 business in Minnesota. 



Mr. Voris, of Illinois, said he believed 

 in the planting of young trees one to 

 two years old, as they stand transplant- 

 ing much better than older trees. 



Several speakers spoke in favor of 

 large trees, saying that the farmers would 

 take better care of a large tree than they 

 would of a small one. 



Sec. Phillips said he had found that 

 he could convert a few by giving them 

 some young trees to set out, and when 

 they come back in a few years they 

 always want the small trees, as they 

 grow much better. 



C. Wedge spoke of " The Best Varie- 



ties and Best Way to Plant an Orchard." 

 He recommended the Repka Melenka 

 as a very hardy winter variety. Would 

 plant wide between the rows, and close 

 in the row, thirty-five to forty ft. between 

 rows, and twelve ft. apart in the row for 

 Duchess, a little farther for Plibernal, of 

 which we are planting very largely in 

 Minnesota. We recommend in our 

 hardiest list, Duchess, Hibernal, and 

 Peterson's Charlemoff. Secondary list, 

 Wealthy, Longfield, Tetofsky and Me- 

 linda. We have a Wealthy fever, and a 

 large number of them are being set. 

 Patten's Greening is very highly re- 

 garded with us also. It keeps nearly as 

 well as Wealthy with us in Minnesota. 

 Okabena is very excellent to follow the 

 Duchess. Very hard to tell the fruit 

 apart, but think it will keep about a 

 month longer. Peerless we do not think 

 any hardier than Utter, and do not 

 think we have any use for it. Nearly 

 all of the varieties that we have on our 

 recommended list are either Russian or 

 of Russian origin. 



Ques. — In setting, would you set in 

 fall or spring ? 



Ans. — I think we are all agreed in 

 taking up in fall, and healing in and 

 then set in the spring. It is too much 

 to ask a young tree to stand taking up, 

 and then the exposure of being set in 

 orchard to stand through the winter. 



Ques. — Would you set on the slant or 

 not? 



Ans. — I am inclined to lean them a 

 little, and to be careful not to prune too 

 much on south side. 



F. C. Edwards read an excellent 

 paper on " Small Fruits." As to varie- 

 ties he said. It will depend much upon 

 your soil, what kinds to plant, but use 

 staple varieties and not run after strange 

 gods, but experiment in a small way 

 with a few of the most promising new 

 kinds. Have your ground so divided 



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