BULB GROWING: SELECTION OF VARIETIES, ETC. 



Conditions vary so widely with dif- 

 ferent persons, it is impossible to make 

 any satisfactory set rules for all to fol- 

 low, even in the general culture of 

 bulbs, and much less is it possible to 

 select sorts agreeable to the varied 

 tastes. I will, therefore merely suggest 

 methods which appear to me most con- 

 venient to the greater number and with- 

 in reach of many others. 



Bulb growing naturally divides itself 

 into two classes : First, windoifr culture, 

 or forcing ; second, outdoor or garden 

 culture. Window culture requires a 

 little more labor, but the compensation 

 is correspondingly greater, as the blos- 

 soms mature at a season when vegeta- 

 tion is naturally taking her rest. How- 

 ever, no more time need be spent caring 

 for these, and frequently not so much, 

 as with the geranium, a plant almost 

 universally grown. Moreover, many of 

 our most easily grown bulbs are not to 

 be compared with the geranium in 

 beauty and delicacy of bloom. 



Hyacinths and the Chinese Sacred 

 Lily are frequently forced in water, or 

 by glass culture, as the process is usually 

 termed. Glasses made especially for 

 hyacinths, each holding a single bulb, 

 may easily be obtamed from florists or 

 seedsmen. There are various designs 

 and sizes, some having two more com- 

 partments, for as many bulbs. The 

 glass is sometimes colored, to exclude 

 bright light from the roots. 



About November ist a bulb is placed 

 in the top of the vase and the glass filled 

 with w^ater, even with the base of the 

 bulb. Set away in a cool, dark place 

 until roots are three or four inches long, 

 when they may be gradually brought to 

 the light. Instead of immediately start- 

 ing the bulbs in water, some growers 

 recommend plunging into wet sand, to 

 one-half their depth, keeping moist, and 

 in a cool, dark place, until roots have 



formed about an inch long, when they 

 are placed in glasses. Either change 

 the water occasionally, being careful 

 that the water added is of the same 

 temperature as that removed, or place a 

 small piece of charcoal in the glass, 

 which will keep the water pure. 



For this purpose always select the 

 largest and most firm bulbs, as they de- 

 pend largely upon their own resources 

 for nourishment. The single varieties 

 of hyacinths are. better for forcing, as 

 they bloom earlier and seem to endure 

 the unnatural conditions better than 

 double sorts. Further than this, as the 

 varieties differ, principally in color, a 

 selection depends upon the taste of the 

 grower. 



The Chinese Sacred Lily is even more 

 easily forced in this manner. Several 

 are grown in each glass or earthen ves- 

 sel, which has about one-half an inch of 

 gravel in the bottom, on which bulbs 

 are placed, and the space around them 

 filled with fine pebbles to the depth of 

 an inch. Otherwise treated as hya- 

 cinths, they may be brought into bloom 

 in a month, or even a shorter time. 

 Other narcissus are sometimes grown in 

 water, but with greater difficulty. 



Most bulbs are quite easily forced in 

 pots. The best time to plant them is 

 about the middle of October. Use five 

 or six inch pots, with a little drainage in 

 the bottom. Of the large bulbs only 

 one can be planted in each pot, and of 

 the small ones from three to eight. 

 Larger pots, or even pans, may be em- 

 ployed, with several more bulbs planted 

 in each, but much better effect in ar- 

 rangement can, as a rule, be secured by 

 using smaller pots. The best soil is a 

 light, sandy loam, enriched with cow 

 manure and leaf mold. 



In potting large bulbs, it is well to 

 fill the pots about two-thirds full of the 

 above mixture, put the bulb in place 



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