SOMETHING FOR LOVERS OF FLOWERS. 



3' 



Prevention is better than a cure with red 

 spider. A moist atmosphere and sprink- 

 ling the foHage, especially on the lower 

 side, is the best preventive against attacks 

 -of red spider. These little mites usually 

 attack the lower side of the leaf. A dust- 

 ing of finely powdered sulphur beneath the 

 leaves, after syringing or sprinkling, is a 

 good remedy and will not hurt the plants. 

 The red spider is the greatest enemy the 

 fuchsia has, and is often the only cause of 

 failure in their growth. It is so small that 

 it is often unseen until the plants are ruined ; 

 hence the necessity for preventing its at- 

 tacks. 



The small scale-like insects that attack 

 the oleander, ivy, orange and other plants, 

 as well as ferns, notably the sword fern, 

 ■can be got rid of by u-ashing the leaves with 

 strong soap suds and rinsing afterwards 

 with cold water. An old tooth brush dip- 

 ped in soapy water will also remove scale 

 •easily. If scale is once moved from its 

 position on the plant it Avill die. 



Mealy bug should be brushed off the 

 plants with a small brush or piece of stick 

 and destroyed, as soon as they appyear. This 

 bug infests coleus very badly sometimes, 

 and is very fond of nesting itself on the 

 passion flower plant or in the thick waxy 

 flowers of the wax plant. Good culture is 

 the best preventive of disease in plants. 



Most window plants are propagated from 

 cuttings or divisions, chiefly from cuttings 

 of the young wood. Sharp, fine sand is 

 the oest material in which to strike cuttings 

 or slips. Almost all kinds of window 

 plants such as geraniums, fuchsias, helio- 

 trope, tradescantia, coleus, chrysanthe- 

 mums and many others will strike root 

 readily from the young cuttings or growth. 

 Voung plants of chrysanthemums are easily 

 struck in the window in a temperature of 

 55 to 60 degrees in well drained pots or 

 small boxes of sand. 



If plants should be frozen, remove them 

 at once into a temperature of 45 to 50 de- 

 grees, and cover them up carefully from 

 light and air. If not frozen too badly they 

 will recover. I have found this method 

 more successful than sprinkling the plants 

 with cold water. Unless the latter is done 

 the plants should be kept in the dark for 

 24 hours before being again introduced 

 into the light. Keep frozen plants out of 

 the sun until they have fully recovered, and 

 do not give them much water until growth 

 has started. 



Almost all the spring flowering bulbs 

 flower well when grown in the window. 

 Hyacinths — especially the white Roman 

 hyacinth — and the different varieties of nar- 

 cissus give the best results for window cul- 

 ture. 



Hardy Climbers 



PROF. H. L. HUTT, O. A. C.^ GUEI.PH. 



Would Ampelopsis Veitchii, Clematis Henryii, 

 Jackmanii and Madame Ed. Andre be hardy 

 enough for the Bobcaygeon district? — (E. D. S. 



Ampelopsis Veitchii is only about half 

 liardy at Guelph. It usually requires some 

 protection for the first two or three years 

 until it gets started and somewhat acclima- 

 tized. Often it is frozen down to the 

 ground during the winter and yet makes a 

 good growth the next season. The best 

 protection is a light screen of cedar boughs 



or old sacking tacked over the vine upon, 

 the wall. 



Clematis Jackmanii is quite hardy here, 

 and usually makes a fine display. The C. 

 Henryii and C. Madam Ed. Andre are also 

 fairly hardy, but are not nearly as much 

 grown as C. Jackmanii. I cannot speak 

 with certainty as to the hardiness of these 

 climbers in the Bobcaygeon district, but at 

 all events they are well worth trying, and I 

 am inclined to think that with reasonable 

 protection at the start they would give 

 satisfactorv results. 



