CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AUGUST 



GKO. HOl.LIS, HKACONDALE, ONT. 



THE month of August is a busy one for 

 chrysanthemum growers, especially 

 for those who raise the early varieties, such 

 as Fitzwigram, Bergman, Monravia, Kalb 

 and Opah. The buds of these early sorts 

 can be taken after August 12. These early 

 buds are crown buds, and it is a good plan, 

 when putting the growths out, to leave one 

 shoot beside the bud for a day or two to 

 draw the sap up and make the bud plump. 

 Should the bud not swell you will then have 

 another chance. 



Wires running the length of the bench, in 

 a line with each row of plants, and a string 

 from top to bottom for each plant, the 

 string being given a twist around the 



growths, make a good support for single 

 stemmed plants. 



Keep the benches free from weeds and 

 the plants well syringed with tobacco water 

 for insect pests. If fumigation is prac- 

 ticed do not overdo it, as the leaves burn 

 very easily. Give manure water once a 

 week, as recommended last month, but a 

 little stronger for the early varieties. Pot 

 plants outside should be well watched for 

 the chrysanthemum fly, which makes its 

 appearance this month. If the plants are 

 stung by the fly you will have only one sided 

 flowers. Cover the plants with cheese 

 cloth, or take them inside. Tobacco smoke 

 keeps them away. 



A TORONTO ROSE GROWER'S METHODS 



AN unusual method of growing roses 

 in the greenhouse is followed by Mr. 

 A. J. Frost, of Preston avenue, Toronto, 

 who, instead of renewing his stock every 

 two or three years, as most growers do, has 

 not renewed his stock for over 10 years. 



"It is so long since I started any young 

 roses in my greenhouse," said Mr. Frost to 

 a representative of The Canadian Horticul- 

 turist, " that I scarcely know how frequent- 

 ly I change my stock. What I have now 

 have not been changed since 1893. They 

 were planted in 1892 and then replanted to 

 where they now stand in July, 1893. The 

 bloom was excellent that season, and dur- 

 ing exhibition weeks I cut 400 to 500 per 

 day. They have been just as good ever 

 since, and I intend to leave them as they are 

 just as long as they yield me as great re- 

 turns as they have done each year. 



" I have bloom to cut the whole year 

 round," continued Mr. Frost. " When the 

 other growers are setting out new stock I 

 cut 50 to 100 off two benches each no feet 

 long. The profit from the same bench 

 space in 12 months is almost double that ob- 



tained from methods of rose culture com- 

 monly employed. I cut 25 to 30 per cent. 

 more bloom and have it at all seasons. Of 

 course, naturally, they do not bloom so 

 freely during the winter months. 



The chief trouble in growing roses is the 

 regulation of soil and air temperatures. 

 With the solid bed the soil temperature very 

 frequently goes much higher than the tem- 

 perature of the atmosphere. This causes 

 rapid growth of the roots, but the stem 

 growth is checked. I now aim to have the 

 temperature of the soil practically the same 

 as that of the air in the house. A tempera- 

 ture of 58 to 60 degrees in winter gives the 

 best results. To have the air temperature 

 slightly higher is not objectionable. In- 

 stead of that, however, many growers have 

 the soil temperature much higher. Low 

 temperature gives high quality of bloom but 

 short stems and low quantity. 



" Before I started into business for my- 

 self I decided that florists did not use the 

 most economical methods in growing roses. 

 I thought that since out-door roses did not 

 need to be renewed each season, those 



