FALL AND WINTER CARE OF PLANTS 



i;. r. COLLINS, PAPE 



WITH the summer season over, the 

 best method of saving the differ- 

 ent roots and bulbs, and of keeping over 

 some of the plants and flowers, which have 

 given so much pleasure during the past sea- 

 son, becomes an important matter for the 

 amateur gardener. The commercial flor- 

 ist or private gardener usually has a dry 

 cellar or shed in which they may be kept 

 free from frosts, but the amateur is often at 

 a loss to know how to winter his plants 

 safely. 



Let most plants, such as dahlias, cannas 

 and gladioli have a touch of frost before 

 disturbing them. Then, after a few bright 

 sunny days, the stems will begin to dry up. 

 Xo set time can be made to cut them down 

 as all depends on the weather. Usually 

 about the middle of October they may be cut 

 down to within six inches of the ground. 

 Care should be taken to label the different 

 kinds, or if the name is not known the color 

 may be marked. The work is made much 

 more interesting in the spring if you can 

 tell what varieties have kept best. Besides, 

 if you wish to exchange specimens with 

 your friends, half of the pleasure is lost if 

 you cannot tell the names or color. 



To keep cannas or dahlias, dig them up on 

 a dry day and shake oft' most of the soil, 

 taking care not to break oft" any of the 

 tubers. Place them one root deep in a box 

 or something which can be moved about 

 easily. If the weather is fine leave them 

 outside in the sun during the day for a week 

 or more. That will ripen the skin and dry 

 up any bruises which may have been made 

 in them, as where there are bruises is where 

 they will start to decay. Thorough drying 

 lessens that danger. After they are well 

 dried, and before they start to wilt, they 

 should be packed fairly tightly in boxes in 

 a single layer (not one on top of the other) 

 and some drv sand or soil should be shaken 



.WENUE, TORONTO. 



between them and on top, to cover the tops 

 of the tubers. Then they can be put in 

 some place where the thermometer stands 

 about 40 degrees all winter. The great 

 secret is to have them remain dormant and 

 that is accomplished by a low temperature, 

 a perfectly dry atmosphere, and having 

 them well ripened before storing. The 

 lover of flowers is often in too great a rush 

 to put the bulbs away instead of giving na- 

 ture a chance to ripen them. 



Dahlias are more easily kept than cannas. 

 Many of the newer varieties of cannas win- 

 ter very poorly, especially if the tubers are 

 not properly developed. If there are 

 varieties which you are short of and want 

 to increase, dig them up and put them in 

 pots or boxes which will just hold the roots 

 and give them a good watering. Place 

 them outside in the sun each day while the 

 temperature remains about 40 degrees, and 

 do not give them any more water, as they 

 should be perfectly dry. Most of the old 

 growth will have dried up and they can be 

 cut off about four inches^ from the base. 

 Numerous green shoots will be seen start- 

 ing up from the roots. If they are kept dry 

 and near a window in the cellar or any cool 

 place they will remain c^uite plump and 

 green, but will not grow until spring. About 

 ]\Iarch they may be cut in small pieces and 

 planted. Nature will do the rest. 



Gladioli may be dug and tied in bunches, 

 but care must be taken not to cut any of 

 them, as it is much better to let the stems 

 dry off. If hung up in a dry place the 

 corms can be very easily pulled away from 

 them during the winter and stored in a cool 

 place. 



Tuberous begonias must not receive more 

 than a very slight frost — just enough to 

 wilt the foliage. When dug, most of the 

 soil which adheres to the fibrous roots 

 should be shaken off and the tubers packed 



* A paper read at the October meeting of the Toronto Horticultural Society. 



430 



