THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



and taken indoors before the nights get 

 chilly and cold. Some broken pieces of 

 llower pot, coarse gravel, or some coal cin 

 ders should be placed at the bottom of the 

 pots before the plants are potted, as bad 

 drainage in the pots during winter will of- 

 ten cause the foliage to turn yellow and 

 drop off prematurely. 



The aphis or green fly, as well as the red 

 spider, are often troublesome pests to these 

 plants. Tobacco smoke or tobacco water 

 will kill the aphis, whilst the red spider can 

 be disposed of by dipping the foliage of the 

 plants in tepid water once or twice a week 

 if the plants are badly infested. 



I know of no plants that will give such 

 continuous flowering results the year round, 

 whether grown in a greenhouse or in the 

 window, more especially when the very little 



care and attention they require is taken into 

 consideration, than these Zanzibar balsams 

 will. 



I had intended to send along a photo of m 

 specimen of these plants with this article, 

 but unfortunately the negative was a failure. 

 Possibly I may secure a picture for next 

 month's issue. 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



The two photos I am sending are those of 

 two of the new chrysanthemums I men- 

 tioned in the December issue, viz. : Miss 

 Elma O'Farrell, a bright rosy-magenta col 

 ored flower, and Miss Minnie Bailey, a light 

 silver pink flower, of a decidedly pretty ro- 

 sette shape. Both are good varieties foi 

 pot culture for the window or greenliouse. 



DAHLIAS 



I^HE most convenient method of raising 

 dahlias is to place the old roots — dur- 

 ing the month of April — in benches or boxes, 

 covering over with sand and stand them in a 

 greenhouse or hotbed in a temperature of 

 about 60 degrees. 'mey should be kept 

 moist, but not over wet. When the shoots 

 attain a length of about four inches, take off 

 as cuttings and insert in propagating bench 

 with about same temperature. When root- 

 ed, pot off singly into three-inch pots, using 

 a sandy compost. Shade till started, then 

 give plenty of light and gradually harden off. 

 Plant outdoors end of May. Training must 

 be done according to the purpose for which 



the plants are intended. For exhibition 

 blooms, three shoots only are left ; these are 

 tied to separate stakes and all buds are re- 

 moved except the centre one in each shoot. 

 But for general purposes, twelve or more 

 shoots can be left. One strong centre stake 

 will be sufficient, the .side branches being 

 supported to this by a string of sufffcient 

 strength ; disbud to one bloom on each shoot. 

 These remarks on training apply only to the 

 larger double flowered varieties. For sin- 

 gles and pompons, little or no disbudding is 

 necessary ; all that is generally required is to 

 give them the requisite support. — Am. Gar- 

 dening. 



