IN THE ORCHARD. 



243 



Sod and Cultivation in the Orchard Cultivation in the Plum Orchard 



*fc]\/l Y belief is," said Mr. William 

 11 Rickard, M. L. A., of Newcastle, 



Ont., to an editorial representative of The 

 Horticulturist recently, " that in deep soils, 

 which will retain moisture readily, the Spy 

 apple will do better if the land is left in sod, 

 especially if it is mulched with barnyard 

 manure. Where the ground is left in sod 

 the apple appears to color more readily. 

 With the Baldwin and Greening the differ- 

 ence is not so marked. All varieties of 

 apples grow larger when the ground is cul- 

 tivated. Where cultivation is practised the 

 Spy seems to grow too large and not to 

 color as well, 



" On sharp, dry soil, cultivation is neces- 

 sary, as otherwise trees will suffer from the 

 drouth. The season, of course, must always 

 be considered, as not so much cultivation 

 will be required if there is plenty of rain. 



" When my orchard was young I used to 

 keep it in hoed crops. As the trees become 

 larger and the roots took up the soil, these 

 crops were discontinued. A cover crop is 

 always best after July i. I prefer clover, 

 although some sow buckwheat or rye. 

 Clover is the best for the land. 



" Plow lightly as soon as tne land is fit, 

 and then keep the harrow and cultivator at 

 work, stirring the surface at least once a 

 week that it may be kept fine. When the 

 cover crop is put on in July it helps to check 

 growth and mature the wood. I am trying 

 sod now in my orchard, because the land 

 does not need conservation of moisture and 

 because the branches of my trees are touch- 

 ing, although the trunks are 30 feet apart." 



We are looking .forward this season for 

 better results in our orchard from power 

 spraying. — (W. D. A. Ross, Chatham, Ont. 



J. G. MITCHELL, GEORGIAN BAY EXPERI- 

 MENTAL STATION. 



ON i naturally well drained soil suffi- 

 ciently rich to grow good farm crops 

 will do nicely for plums. Trees grow 

 faster and bear better on loamy soil, but pro- 

 bably live a little longer on clay. 



For the first few years hoed crops may be 

 grown, providing there is sufficient plant 

 food for both trees and crops. After trees 

 come into bearing they should have the land 

 to themselves and receive clean cultivation. 

 CONSERVING THE MOISTURE. 



In order to conserve moisture, begin in 

 the spring as soon as ground will work 

 nicely, and continue cultivation right along. 

 Harrow or cultivate once every week or two, 

 or after every heavy rain. As soon as the 

 tools will work clean, provide a good heavy 

 blanket of dust or very fine earth. This 

 will prevent capillary attraction and hold all 

 the moisture needed, even if it should not 

 rain for a week. 



About the last of July, or first of August, 

 cultivation should cease, so as not to en- 

 courage late growth, but a hard ripening of 

 the wood. Sow with crimson or red clo- 

 ver. I do not know which is best, as I have 

 had splendid stands of both. This should 

 be plowed down during the following spring 

 and cultivation renewed as outlined above. 

 Don't forget to feed seven or eight cents 

 worth of barnyard or commercial fertilizer 

 to each tree. It will keep them doing nicelv. 



In thinning the apple tree try and do it so 

 the vitality of the tree will be sent into the 

 fruit. — (J. S. L., Bartonville, Ont. 



Trees Ringed By Mice. — It has been §aid 

 that if trees ringed by mice have the earth 

 thrown up around the injured part they will 

 still grow. This is not so; I have tried it 

 and it failed. Mice want the inner bark, 

 and go for what they want, and if the trees 

 are treated in that way they will die. The 

 only way is to bridge them. I have always 

 been successful in bridging. — (A. Shaw^, 

 Walkerton, Ont. 



