26o 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



Plume, are blanched by placing boards one 

 foot wide snugly up against each side of the 

 row. If earth were used before September 

 the celery would rot. For late celery the 

 self-blanching varieties do not need blanch- 

 ing, as they blanch all too soon in the store- 

 house. The green and red celeries are 

 whitened by pulling earth up against the 

 row with a dandelion rake (about i6 inches 

 wide) after the earth has been loosened up 

 with a cultivator. 



If the celery is to be kept a long time it 

 ought not to be blanched higher than 2 or 3 

 inches from the root, because blanching is 

 the first step towards decay. Then, when 

 it is kept a long time in the cellar it gradu- 

 ally blanches itself. Most varieties require 

 some earthing up to make the heads com- 

 pact. This earthing up is greatly facili- 

 tated if the plants are set out in a shallow 

 trench or depression made by a double 

 mould board plow ; but of course the plants 

 must be large or they would be smothered 

 out by the washings from thunder storms. 



SHOULD BE LEFT OUT. 



Celery, for late winter use, ought to be 

 left out until just before the ground freezes 

 because two weeks of warm weather 

 while it is in the storehouse will destroy it. 

 It will stand a great deal of frost if it is 



banked up high enough to keep the hearts 

 from freezing. 



In storing celery the main object is to 

 keep it from heating. The usual method is 

 to stand it up in stalls, i. e:, between the 

 boards that have been used for blanching; 

 they stand on edge about a foot apart. If 

 it is packed in very tightly it will heat ; while 

 if it is not pretty snug, it will all topple over 

 in one direction, and the heads, lying upon 

 each other, will rot, besides the hearts grow 

 upwards at right angles to their respective 

 heads. There is no danger of the heads 

 wilting, as the celery sweats and gathers 

 moisture. This method is further improved 

 by packing straw or leaves in with the tops 

 so that the tops will be tight and the stalks 

 loose. The tops are allowed to freeze. An- 

 other way, which is too laborious to practise 

 on a large scale is to place the celery in earth. 



If the celery heats the outside stalks turn 

 yellow ; there is the odor of mouldy hay and 

 your crop rots in two or three weeks. If 

 you try to market it the heads have to be 

 trimmed down to a very small size and the 

 price is correspondingly low. It is easy 

 enough to grow celery, but very few can 

 keep it until the middle of March in such a 

 condition that it does not have to be trim- 

 med down almost to the hearts ; and celery 

 is hard to sell in the early winter. 



JUNE \«rORK IN TELE V£G£TABL£ GARDEN 



WM. HUNT, ONT. AGRI. COLLEGE, GUELPH. 



A SOWING of peas and beans may yet 

 be made for late crops. Peas are 

 not, however, a very reliable crop sown 

 now, unless the season is very favorable. 

 The green varieties of dwarf beans give the 

 best results for late crops, and are of more 

 service for pickling or salting down if there 

 is a surplus of them, than are the yellow 

 wax-beans. 



A row or two of late carrots and beets sown 

 about the end of June or early in July will. 



if the season is at all favorable, produce 

 better roots for winter use than the early 

 sown crops. Corn can be sown at any time 

 during June, and will come in before frost 

 generally. Late cabbage and cauliflower 

 can oftentimes be planted to advantage be- 

 tween the rows of early potatoes before the 

 latter are dug. A week or two can be 

 gained in this way, as sometimes there is 

 scarcely time for cabbage and cauliflower to 

 head if they are not planted until after early 



