WITH THE VEGETABLE GROWERS. 



309 



good varieties to plant. The White Plume 

 variety and Paris Golden Yellow are more 

 subject to rust than the other varieties men- 

 tioned. 



There is time yet to put in a row or two 

 of dwarf beans, and some corn for late use. 

 Sow the early varieties of corn, such as the 

 Cory and Country Gentleman varieties, as 

 these mature quickly. There will be 

 scarcely time for the late varieties, such as 

 Stowell's Evei-green, etc., to produce a crop, 

 unless very favorable weather is experienced 

 during early autumn. 



BKANS Fi'^K PLANTING 



The best kind of beans to plant now are 

 the Early Six Weeks and Early Valentine. 

 These are both quick growing varieties and 

 green in color, making them more useful 

 for pickling than the yellow wax beans, if 

 there is a surplus of them for table use. 



If really good leeks are wanted they 

 must be planted out in a trench prepared 



exactly as recommended for celery. To se- 

 cure the long white stems that make the 

 leek so valuable for cooking as a vegetable, 

 they must be watered and earthed up 

 exactly in the same way that celery is 

 grown. ivceks grown in this way are con- 

 sidered by many to be far preferable to 

 onions when boiled. It is seldom that good 

 well grown leeks are seen either in our mar- 

 kets or in private gardens. 



Potatoes should be sprayed once or twice 

 during the season when in full growth, with 

 Bordeaux and paris green mixture. It will 

 not only help to keep down the bugs, but 

 will also destroy the fungus that produces 

 the potato rot. Put the mixture on when 

 the vines are dry. 



Burn the old pea vines as soon as the last 

 peas are picked. This will help to eradicate 

 the pea weevil or pea bug that has become 

 so destructive a pest to farmers as well as 

 gardeners. 



A WHOLE HOST OF INSECT ENEMIES 



PROF. H. L. HUTT, ONT. AGRI. COLLEGE, GUELPH. 



I have a number of Early Jersey cabbage 

 plants set out in the garden. The ground was 

 fall plowed, but in cultivating this spring I saw 

 a number of large white grubs. What shall I 

 do to prevent them from cutting the plants ? 

 What shall I use as a preventative against 

 caterpillars on my cabbage plants ? Should 

 the grub cut tihe stems of my tomato plants 

 what shall I do ? (E. G. Carp, Ontario. 



It is a difficult matter to deal with white 

 grubs in the soil, as one never knows just 

 where they are -going to prove troublesome. 

 Usually the best remedy is to dig them out 

 and destroy them wherever they are seen. 

 They usually show their presence below the 

 ground by the injury to the plants above 

 ground, so whenever a plant is found dying 

 you may look for white grubs at the roots. 



Sometimes to prevent these and cut 

 worms from cutting off the plants, a small 

 band of stiff brown paper is inserted in the 

 soil around the plant, not so deeply as to in- 



terfere with the roots, but merely to keep off 

 worms in their attempt to reach the plant. 

 After the land has been two years under 

 cultivation from the sdd, the white grubs are 

 not likely to give any more trouble, as the 

 Eggs from which they develop are laid by 

 the May beetles in soft land. 



The best protection against cabbage cater- 

 pillars is to spray with paris green or helle- 

 bore. Some have dread of using these 

 poisons on plants like the cabbage, which 

 are used for food, but when the method of 

 heading the cabbage is understood it can 

 readily be seen that none of the poison is 

 enclosed in the head, but is instead de- 

 posited on the outer leaves, which are strip- 

 ped off when the cabbage is prepared for 

 the table. When tomato plants have been 

 cut off by the worms there is nothing else 

 to do but replant or patiently bear the loss. 



