192 



The Canadian Horticulturist. 



or burns red, the foliage will be ruined. Now this all sounds very difficult, but 

 in practical experience the trouble will be found to be slight. 



A few of the best varieties for pot culture are : Catherine Mermdt, a shell 

 pink ; Madame de Watteville, a creamy white shaded pink, shading to deep rose 

 at the edge of petals ; Sunset, and Perle des Jardines, too well known to need 

 describing ; Bride, the most perfect large white known ; the old-fashioned poly- 

 antha roses, Aggripina and the newer Clotbilde Soupert, which cannot be 

 excelled for house culture. 



Now, a word about out-door roses : What I have said about soil, light and 

 sunny position inside, applies equally to roses grown outside. Bordeaux mix- 

 ture applied to foliage when buds are beginning to form, is a preventive of the 

 usual out-door pests, the chief of which are mildew, and the well-known little 

 white fly which works under the leaves. 



Do not be afraid of cutting your blossoms. Take off with your bloom a 

 stem of three or four leaf joints. If the blossoms are left to fade on the bush 

 the strength which would produce more flowers is absorbed by them. 



The roses should have a general pruning in fall or early spring ; all weak 

 shoots being cut back close, and long canes being shortened to make a symme- 

 trical plant. 



As to varieties, a few which have been tested in Ontario are : Baroness 

 Rothschild, a soft carnation ; Coquette des Blanches, pure white, sometimes 

 pink tinted ; Gen. Jacqueminot, a rich crimson ; La P>ance, a silvery rose ; 

 Pius the Ninth, robust pink ; Dinsmore, a splendid red ; Paul Neyron, brilliant 

 pink ; Perle Blanche, pure white, free blooming. 



More anon as to how to get early and beautiful roses without fire or arti- 

 ficial heat. 



Mary Bassett Hodges. 



Commercial Greenhouses, Orillia. 



Pruning". — Experience has taught me that it would be 

 very unwise to leave a stub in cutting a branch from a tree. If 

 it were left on in pruning, it would eventually have to be cut off 

 at the base, unless left to rot off. Any one who has cut and split n 

 cordwood, or handled knotty lumber, knows how these dead ^ 

 stubs injure the tree, If a branch must be removed, let it be 

 done as soon as possible, and like any other surgical operation, 

 with neatness and despatch. Just at the junction of the branch 

 with the main stem, is the spot to make the cut. Then paint 

 the wound, if larger than will be grown over the first year. In 

 Fig. 772 the cut at i is too close to the body, and the wound too 

 large ; at 2 it is too far from it, but at 3 it is just right. — H. E. 

 VanDeman, in R. N. Y. 



Fig. 



