The Canadian Horticulturist. 197 



apples every year without other help. The trees must be properly fertilized and 

 moderately trimmed every year. If the orchard is so thick as to interlock, cut 

 out every other row diagonally, which will give the tree sun and air. Then if 

 the rains and cold storms don't wash out the pollen of the flowers at the time 

 of fertilization, there will be no reason why we should not raise as good fruit as 

 in olden times. — Albert Wood, in .American Agriculturist. 



A HANDY FIELD MARKER. 



Regularity is one of the chief features that make a garden attractive. It is 

 not enough that the rows of vegetables be straight, but such plants as lettuce, 

 cabbage, cauliflower, etc., should also have a uniform distance in the row, and 

 with the wider planted ones, if possible, also be in line crosswise. 



A convenient little device to mark not only the rows but also the exact 

 places for each plant in the row, we find illustrated in Rawson's Market Gar- 

 dener's and Vegetable Grower's Manual. Our illustration makes construction 



much plainer than a wordy description 

 could do. The pins which serve to 

 mark the places for plants in the row 

 are put in with a nut, and may be 

 changed to mark intervals of ten, 

 twelve, twenty and twenty-four inches, 

 if the wheel is made plump 38 inches 

 in diameter. A field can be marked with this implement in a short time, and 

 with little effort. For the purposes of marking the rows for sowing seeds of 

 radishes, carrots, table beets, lettuce, etc., in the house garden, any of the simple 

 home-made garden markers, consisting of a piece of scantling with the necessary 

 number of teeth, and a convenient handle, will answer well enough. 



Ppuning when Transplanting. — The stem should now be put in 

 condition for the formation of the top, by removing all the limbs to the point 

 where it is desired to have the top ; then cut back each remaining limb, leaving 

 from four to six buds of last season's growth. In the absence of any limbs suit- 

 able to form a top, cut the tree down to the requisite height, leaving the dormant 

 buds to make the top. The business of pruning vigorously at time of setting is 

 generally an ungrateful one to the planter, as it injures for a time the appearance 

 of the tree to an unpracticed eye. It should, however, be unhesitatingly per- 

 formed, all the branches to the extent of at least one half the length of the pre- 

 vious year's growth being removed. Care should also be used to give the proper 

 form to the tree. The head may be left high or low, as the taste of the planter 

 may prefer, or as the nature of the tree in some cases may require. No stock 

 planted in the fall should be pruned till the hard frost has left in the spring, but 

 before the sap starts. — W, E. ^Vellington. 



