2 26 The Canadian Horticulturist. 



In addition to these reports, Mr. M. Burrill, of St. Catharines, President of the 

 Louth Fruit Growers' Association, writes : — On my own place, things at present look as 

 follows: — Quinces all gone, plums 90% destroyed, pears 75% destroyed, peaches (early) 

 60 % destroyed, peaches (late) 80 % destroyed, cherries (sweet) 90 % destroyed, cherries 

 (sour) 20 % destroyed, strawberries 40 % destroyed, grapes 50 % destroyed. On the lake 

 shore the prospects are brighter ; south of me, worse. I am a half mile from the lake. 



Mr. J, M. FiSK, of Abbotsford, Que., writes : — We had a heavy frost on the 13th of 

 May and a lighter one on the 16th — doing considerable damage, killing back our grape 

 vines and discoloring the bloom on our fruit trees and causing many a grower to feel that 

 the bottom had suddenly dropped out of his calculations. Although the weather stil 

 continues cool, the pear and apple crop does not seem to be so seriously injured as at first 

 supposed, and we can but hope that the reports from the different parts of the country 

 will prove somewhat exaggerated and the fruit crop of 1895 will not be a total failure. 



The Pearl Gooseberry. 



740. Sir, — Please give me a short history of the Pearl gooseberry in your June 

 number. Where did it originate, and what superior qualities has it ? , 



F. C. BuLMAN, Toronto. 



This gooseberry is a seedling, raised at London, Ont., by Mr. William 

 Saunders, now director of the Experimental Farms of the Dominion. It was 

 a cross between the Downing and an English variety, called Ashton's Seedling 

 It has all the vigor of the Downing, as resistant of mildew, and a trifle larger 

 and more productive. 



Chrysanthemums from Cutting's. 



741. Sir, — Will you give a few hints on raising chrysanthemums from cuttings. 

 Do they require pinching off? 



SUB.SCRIBER. 



Chrysanthemums after blooming in the fall, should be cut down, and the 

 pots containing the roots should be stored in the cellar, where they will require 

 little or no watering. About the first of March they should be brought up to 

 the light and watered, and in a short time there will be an abundance of healthy 

 green sprouts from which cuttings may be taken. These sprouts may generally 

 be taken up with a few roots attached, and if planted singly in small pots go on 

 growing as if nothing had happened. If cuttings only are taken, they may be 

 rooted in a pan of clear, sharp sand, which should be kept in a warm window 

 and well watered. As soon as well rooted, the plants should be potted in rich 

 soil in small pots, and should be re-potted into larger ones as soon as the soil 

 becomes well filled with roots. They may require three or four shifts during the 

 season, and by September should be in eight or nine-inch pots. 



