The Canadian Horticulturist. 253 



as soon as they show signs of the malady, and at the proper season, cutting well 

 back the branches where the disease existed, is the best course, and ought to 

 mitigate the evil. As an experiment it is suggested that the trees be sprayed 

 before the buds begin to swell, with a 30 or 40 per cent, solution of sulphate of 

 iron. — Orange Judd Farmer. 



GROWING MELONS. 



HE best soil for the watermelon is a light, warm, sandy loam, yet 

 I find some soils, that will not produce fine melons with all other 

 essentials given. Whatever tends to compact the soil, whether 

 rainy weather or a deficiency of vegetable matter, is detrimental 

 to the crop. I take the best soil I can arrange to plant, and in 

 the fall scatter tobacco stems liberally over the ground. I find, 

 contrary to many, that the richer the soil, provided it be warm and light, the 

 surer the success. I break the ground very deep before the stems are put on, 

 and then before planting break a little deeper, then work it mellow to the bottom. 

 If one is not careful they will get the soil mellow on top to perhaps half the 

 depth, and the other half full of large clods. This should not be. I prefer 

 marking both ways, as the plants can be worked better. At each crossing I put 

 two shovelfuls of good manure. The best I have used was well-rotted, forest 

 leaf mould and stable manure put in alternate layers of equal proportion. This 

 well-rotted and turned over until well mixed. This manure may not rush the 

 plant while young so much as all stable manure, but it will bring more and larger 

 fruit. Bones dissolved in ashes and a handful of the mixture put in the hill 

 adds greatly to the crop. 



I make large hills (not high up, but around) and drop at least a dozen seeds 

 in a hill. I shall this spring make a line across the hill and plant on one side • 

 then in about ten days plant the other side. Planting so many seeds in the hill 

 has two important reasons. So many plants aid each other in raising soil (which 

 is apt to become crusted on top), and they will come up better. Some seeds 

 give stronger plants than others, and will bear better fruit. Planting so many 

 in the hill we are more apt to get strong plants. These can be selected after 

 the plants are some size. I leave only two plants in the hill. As soon as the 

 plants are up well, the soil should be made loose around them, being careful not 

 to disturb the young plant. I like deep cultivation ; at least for the first three 

 cultivations, then shallow until done. I plow the ground thoroughly between 

 the hills at each plowing, and I like to cultivate them every few days. In cul- 

 tivating the vines the least they are molested the better, as moving them injures 

 them after they begin to run much. I may give a few more hints on melon 

 culture before selling time. — Thos. D. Baird, in American Farmer. 



