1«0 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



June, 1916. 



A spi'ke of Madonna lily, 4 feet tall, with 11 



wnt^r'J'M ■' ?" ''• ^G'own In the perennial 



border of Mrs. Laura Roi^e Stephen, Huntingdon 



Que. 



ingly it is seldom performed efficiently 

 and the results are not satisfactory. A 

 little stroll around the garden in the 

 early morning or again late in the even- 

 ing will reveal many interesting things, 

 and although it is next to impossible 

 to keep any garden free from all visits 

 of insects and fungous diseases a cheer- 

 ful expectation of the enemy and the 

 knowledge that he can be combatted 

 without much difficulty turns the work 

 of fighting him into an interesting 

 phase of gardening effort. 



Enemies of the Rose. 



The eating or chewing insects that 

 attack the rose consist of various small 

 caterpillars, beetles, saw-fly larvae and 

 the leaf-cutting bee. None are very 

 troublesome except in certain special 

 cases. Remedies— Hand picking or a 

 poisoned spray. 



Sap sucking insects include Green 

 aphis or plant lice, the one really trou- 

 blesome insect in this class. Leaf hop- 

 pers, which cause a mottling or marb- 

 ling of the leaves. Their larvae work 

 invside the leaves. Prog-hopper Or the 

 Oacker-spit insects. Scale insects, not 

 common. Remedies — ^A nicotine or soap 

 mixture, or in the case of number two, 

 picking off the affected leaves in the 

 early stages. 



Leaf-miners are the larvae or mag- 

 gots produced by a minute moth. Thev 

 are generally troublesome in June and 

 in August. The minute maggots live 



and feed inside the leaf under the epi- 

 dermis, also causing the leaf to turn 

 mottled or brown. Remedies — Picking 

 off the affected leaves as soon as they 

 appear, or frequent sprayings with 

 nicotine will keep them under oontrol. 



Thrips are a minute insect produced 

 by a small fly. This trouble is similar 

 to that produced by leaf hoppers. Rem- 

 edies—Nicotine, cold water, or hand 

 j)icking of leaves. 



The red spider is a very minute 

 spidcr-hke insect working on the under 

 side of the leaves, seldom visible to the 

 naked eye. Results, a mottling and 

 yellowing of the leaves. Remedies — 

 Spraying with cold water, liver of sul- 

 phur or nicotine. 



Diseases. 

 Black Spot is the most troublesome 

 diseavse of ro.ses in eastern Canada. It 

 appeai-s in the form of large black or 

 purplish spots in the leaves. First ap- 

 pearance generally about late July or 

 early August. Remedies— Thorough- 

 ness with any copper or sulphur spray, 

 ■ such as ammoniacal copper carbonate, 

 or liver of sulphur. Lead arsenate will 

 also keep it under control. 



Mildew is a troublesome disease of 

 the rose in western Canada, and in the 

 east during damp or cool weather. It 

 generally appears late in the season 

 in the east. This disease causes a whit- 

 ened or mouldy appearance on the 

 leaves and terminal shoots. Remedies 

 — Liver of sulphur as a spray or 

 flowers of sulphur dusted on. 



The Amateur's Fruit Garden 



M. B. Davis, Central Experimental Farm. Ottawa 



Tree fruits should be pruned in early 

 April or in June. Wounds made in 

 June will heal much better than wounds 

 made a little earlier. At that time it 

 will be well to cut out those old canker 

 and diseased areas, and paint the same 

 over with pure white lead and oil. If 

 you did not remove the old canes from 

 the raspberries last fall, it should be 

 done at once, as they will only interfere 

 with the new growth. The currant and 

 gooseberry plantations may be pruned 

 any time now. 



Aphis and caterpillars will bear 

 watching. For aphis use a weak to- 

 bacco extract, and spray it on them, or 

 if you have only a few bushes, dip the 

 leaves in the solution. Kerosene emul- 

 sion is also good, and can be made by 

 anybody. For the caterpillars use 

 Paris green, one ounce to six gallons of 

 water, mixed with a little milk of lime. 

 Watch for the currant worm, and get 

 that first brood with Paris green, one 

 ounce to ten gallons. For the second 

 brood use hellebore dusted on the 

 bushes when they are wet with dew. 



Helping Flowers To Last 



Flowers should if convenient be 

 gathered at some other time than dur- 

 ing the heat of the day and be placed 

 in water in a cool place as soon as pos- 

 sible. After this treatment, they will 

 keep much better than they would if 

 not induced to fill up with water. Most 

 flowers keep and look better if gathered 

 when in bud just before opening. This 

 is true of roses, poppies, peonies and 

 others. Double flowers as a rule keep 

 longer than single kinds. 



For cut flowers in the house it is 

 very desirable to have kinds which will 

 continue to develop buds into flowers 

 after being placed in water. Perhaps 

 no kind has this quality in a more 

 inarked degree than the gladiolus. Dur- 

 ing parching hot winds it is possible to 

 have such in their greatest beauty in the 

 house when the weather will not" permit 

 such conditions out of doors. Before 

 storms it is well to secure a supply of 

 flowers for indoor use that their beauty 

 may be enjoyed while those out of doors 

 are recovering. 



Some kinds which have a milky juice 

 like the poppies and some others, as the 

 dahlia will keep better if the tips of 

 the stems are dipped in very hot water 

 before they are cared for in the ordin- 

 ary way. It is well nigh impossible to 

 have the oriental poppies hold im fi-p^jh 

 without such treatment. 



Popnies should alwavs be gnitni-od 

 in the bud just before they are ready to 

 push through the calyx.' With kinds 

 which last well in water it is desirable 

 to renew the water often, otherwise the 

 smell of decay at the base of the stems 

 sometimes becomes offensive, which is 

 not healthful. 



For aphis (green lice) on roses, spray 

 with a nicotine solution. A pei-fectly 

 good solution may be made by pouring 

 two quarts of boiling water over a 

 pound of tobacco stems. This decoc- 

 tion may be used with safety on ro.ses 

 Avithout dilution. Do not boil tobacco 

 in water; this drives off the nicotine; 

 just steep the stems. Almost any form 

 of tobacco will answer, but the stems 

 are cheap. 



The first consideration, when plan- 

 ning the perennial border, is a .suitable 

 background. This may be trees, shrubs, 

 vines, or even the taller growing herb- 

 aceous perennials. The smaller growing 

 species should be brought t6 the front 

 of the border, so they will not be hidden 

 by taller kinds. An irregular profusion 

 of plants and bloom is more interesting 

 and pleasing than any attempt to ar- 

 range the various kinds in formal lines 

 or sqiuare blocks. 



