June, 1918. 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



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The Garden in the Critical Month of June 



IF you happen to be moving about 

 the last of May, do not be disheart- 

 ened about a garden, for anything 

 that will thrive and bloom in a garden, 

 may be planted the first week in June, 

 except the early blooming shrubs and 

 perennials, so get busy and carry out 

 ihe plan shown in the April number of 



he Canadian Horticulturist. 

 Shrubs are beginning to bloom now. 

 When they are through blooming is the 



ine to prune and then only. It is 

 .. arm enough now to plant anything, 

 and practically all danger of frost is 

 past, so if you haven't already done so, 

 plant out everything you want in the 

 flower and vegetable garden. Keep 

 right on cultivating in the perennial 

 border. I find a three pronged serat- 

 cher is a splendid tool for this purpose, 

 especially if the border is well filled. 

 Move all indoor plants out of the house, 

 repot if nece.ssary, and plunge them, 

 pot and all into a partially shady spot 

 in the border. 



This is the most critical period with 

 tiie rose bed. Look out for small cater- 

 pillars and green fly. Don't let them 

 eat the very heart nnd soul out of your 

 ^^ bushes, but start the spraying opera- 

 ' tions at once. Taking it for granted 

 that you will mix your own sprays, 

 the following table if carried out as to 

 dates and quantities will be found suf- 

 ficient, and will ensure your having a 

 good crop of roses again in September 

 and later. 



June 1st. — "Whale-oil soap, one pound 

 to 8 gallons of water. 



June .'ith.^ — Potassium sulphide 2 oz. 



4 gallons of water. 



•Tunc 8th. — Whale-oil soap. 



June nth. — Potassium. 



June 15th. — Arsenate of lead one 

 pound to 10 gallons of water. 



June 21st. — Arsenate of lead. 



June 27th. — Whale-oil soap. 



Jnlv 3rd. — Arsenate of lead. 



This will l)e sufficient for one hun- 

 dred bushes, smaller quantities in pro- 

 portion. 



The Vegetable Garden. 



Vegetable seeds are now showing 

 through, so start cultivating in be- 

 tween the rows at once, and as often 

 as po.ssible. You cannot overdo it. 

 Watch the cabbage patch for the green 

 caterpillar. Fight him with white helli- 

 bore, or Slug-shot, but fight him and 

 don't have holes pitted all over the 

 cabbace. The .same applies to cauli- 

 flower. It is now time to plant out the 

 celery plants, eight inches apart, and 

 rows eighteen inches. Three weeks 

 after planting you may begin feeding 



Geo. Baldwin, F.R.H.S., Toronto, (!nt. 



with liquid manure, once a week, gradu- 

 ally increasing in strength until Sept. 

 1st, then stop. If you are bleaching 

 with earth it will be as well to sink 

 an empty flower pot here and there 

 along the bed, and pour the liquid into 

 these. 



Peas should be well up now. The 

 tall growing kinds will need a little 

 coaxing to climb up the brush. Keep 

 sparrows away from them a while long- 

 er. It is time now to put in another 

 sowing of peas, beans, lettuce, radish, 

 etc., .for succession. Start earthing up 

 the potatoes as soon as they are five or 

 six inches high, and cultivate well in 

 between the rows. Also stir well the 

 soil around cucumbers until the foliage 

 stops you and be sure to scatter a little 

 lime and sulphur occasionally to keep 

 the soil sweet and chase the squash 

 bug away. Thin out the carrots, 

 beets, and pai-snips, " in their young 

 stage, to six inches apart, and leeks 

 and salsify eight inches. Earth up 

 leeks the same as for celery. 



Onions if growing from seed will need 

 watching very carefully for root mag- 

 got. Use some lime and thin out to 

 four inches apart. As soon as they are 

 six inches high you may start feeding 

 with liquid manure the same as for 

 celery. Hill up corn the same as for 

 ])otatoes. It not only makes them grow 

 stronger, but prevent.s wind from blow- 

 ing thoni down. Do not pull all the 

 .sticks of rhubarb, only the largest, and 

 be sure to cut down the se«d stems, 

 (rive the asparagus bed a slight salting 

 now, and don't let the soil bake. Keep 



the strawberry bed clean of weeds, and 

 don't forget using a litter to keep sand 

 off when it rains. 



I look into hundreds of gardens in 

 my travels, and very rarely do I find 

 fruit trees, unless it is a few raspberry 

 canes, or one or two currant bushes. 

 There is no reason why the small house- 

 holder cannot have four or five fruit 

 trees, even if it is a small gaj'den, by 

 getting the trailing and dwarf varieties. 

 I prefer the former. If planted so that 

 they will trail due east and west, only 

 the width of the tree shades the gar- 

 den. The accompanying illustration 

 shows a six year old apple tree five feet 

 high and fifteen feet long, growing in 

 my garden. As I write it is smothered 

 with blossom and I expect to obtain a 

 good crop of fruit. 



Spraying Necessary. 



Spraying for insects and fungus is 

 just as necevssary for fruit and veget- 

 ables as it is for roses. Give quantities 

 suitable for an ordinary sized city back 

 garden. Start off with bordeaux mix- 

 ture. If used properly and at the pro- 

 per time it will control fungus diseases, 

 such as anthracnose on beans and cu- 

 cumbers, leaf-spot on beets and cur- 

 rants, potato blight and many other 

 ills. It is a preventative if used early. 

 Dissolve one table spoonful of copper- 

 sulphate in one quart of warm water, 

 then one and a half table spoonfuls of 

 unslaked lime in another can. Slake it 

 gradually with water until you finally 

 make one quart of liquid. Mix the two 

 liquids together in the old garbage r»«il, 

 and add two more quarts of water. You 



Amateur Gardener.s might well adupt this meth od of tiaininK fruit treo.s. U avoids heavy 

 shading of plants g^iowing nearby. Note the article on this page. 



