3^ 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIS'J . 



igyEiTlOM il^AUE^, 



Grafting Grape Vines. 



Sir,— I have an old and very vigorous Isabella 

 grape vine which, owing to the shortness of our 

 seasons, rarely ripens its fruit. 



Can another and earlier variety of grape be 

 grafted into the vine ? If so, kindly explain how 

 this can best be done. 



Geo. Thomson. 

 Wolfville, N. S. 



The Isabella is an old variety which ripens 

 late, and even in the Niagara district is often 

 caught with frost before it is ripe. If our cor- 

 respondent would graft his vines with Worden 

 for black, Lady for white and Lindley for red he 

 would get better matured fruit. We quote 

 from a previous number of our journal giving 

 instructions on grafting the grape. 



Grafting grape vines is quite essential in 

 vineyards where old or worthless varieties 

 have by accident been raised. In a very 

 short time the worthless vines can be 

 made to produce an abundance of superior 

 grapes. Grafting yields many other results 

 that must be considered by every owner 

 of vines. In testing new varieties of grapes the 

 easiest and quickest way to do it is to graft them 

 on the old vines. The new scions can be made 

 to fruit the first year, and by the second year a 

 good crop can be obtained. Many varieties 

 that cannot be produced very readily from cut- 

 tings, will grow rapidly and successfully when 

 grafted on to old vines. When properly per- 

 formed the grafter's art can be made to increase 

 the fruitfulness of the vines. Finally, and not 

 the least important of all the benefits derived 

 from grafting, this has been found to be the only 

 successful way of fighting the phylloxera in Cali- 

 fornia. 



The method of grafting grape vines should be 

 about the same in all localities, but the time of 

 year best suited for the work naturally differ. 

 Usually the spring of the year, from the first of 

 April to the first of May, is the most suitable 

 period for this work. The sap of the vines 



Fig. 1732 

 Grafted Vine. 



should be in rapid motion at the grafting so that 

 the union will be made at once. The best wood 

 of last season's growth should be selected for 

 the scions. The cuttings 

 should be selected early 

 in the season, and then 

 be buried in bundles un- 

 til needed for grafting. 

 Frost will injure them, 

 and they should be per- 

 fectly free from all ex- 

 posure to it. The scions 

 should be about the size 

 of a lead pencil, short- 

 jointed, firm and of well- 

 ripened wood. 



The grafting is usually done at or near the 

 surface where the vigor of the old vines is the 

 greatest. Cut the stock off square at about one 

 inch and a half above the joint, or half way be- 

 tween two joints. If the stock is a large one 

 make a slight split in it with the knife or chisel, 

 press a wedge down to pry it open, and then 

 insert a scion on each side. The scions must 

 also be cut to a sloping point just below an eye. 

 Push the scions down firmly, but be sure to 

 make the bark of the scion and stock meet. 

 When the wedge is withdrawn the bark of the 

 two should meet firmly together, and if they do 

 not the grafting is not a success. 



If the grafting is properly done, and the union 

 made perfect, np bandaging is necessary. This 

 is only an excuse to cover up poor workman- 

 ship. Some light earth should be pressed firmly 

 into the split, and all around where there is any 

 opening. This dry earth will prevent the graft 

 from drying out. If there is any doubt about 

 the work, a bandage of cloth and dirt after the 

 old style can be wound around the graft. To 

 make graftings more successful, it is well to cul- 

 tivate the stocks carefully before so that a vig- 

 orous growth will be had at the time of grafting. 

 The scions should also be strong, well-selected 



