28o 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



sun and the drouth at the roots stop the 

 sap from flowing into the half matured 

 young- twigs. In such conditions they have 

 to stand still during the hottest part of the 

 summer, and by the time the cool nights 

 and the fall rains come, the pith in the 

 centre of the young twigs is dried up and 

 dead, the disease continuing downwards 

 until the tree is dead. It will be seen then 

 that any cool and porous material on the 

 surface of the soil will be of great benefit as 

 a preventive. It will also be seen that the 

 piuning on the above system, stimulating 

 an equal and earlier growth, will have the 

 tendency to make the growth ripen earlier 

 or mature earlier and evener on the young 

 twigs. I am also a great believer in wood 

 ashes and bone meal as a fertilizer. 



I also strongly believe in using lots of 

 lime in the soil for all tree fruits. I think 

 there is more virtue in lime to our fruits than 

 is known to the majority of fruit growers ; 

 it certainly warms and sweetens the soil 

 and there are few insects that like lime. 



Slacked lime is as good as sulphur to prevent 

 mildew on the grape vine ; it helps to 

 prevent the rot in the plum fruit ; it will 

 partly check the curl leaf in the peach tree ; 

 it will kill the slug that eats the coating of 

 the cherry tree leaves ; it will check the 

 ravages of the caterpillars on the goose- 

 berries and currants ; the black fly does not 

 like it on cabbage, or turnips, or radishes, 

 and it will help check the scab on apples 

 and pears. Whitewash the trunks and 

 branches of all trees with a wash of lime, 

 soft soap and clay to thicken as a paint ; 

 scrape first the trunks and branches of all 

 their rough bark ; . if the trees are stunted 

 and hide-bound run a strong jack-knife 

 lengthwise through the outer bark along the 

 trunk and branches, but never cut across the 

 trunk or branches, then apply the white- 

 wash, and, I think you will be agreeably 

 surprised at the results dervived from the 

 operation. R. Cameron. 



Read before the Niagara Falls South Horticul- 

 tural Society gth April, 1900. 



WORMY APPLES. 



'HERE is nothing new about wormy 

 apples except the way to avoid 

 having them. There are several 

 species of grubs or worms which work in 

 apples, but the one which does nearly all 

 the damage is the core worm. The core 

 worm is the off"spring of the codling moth, 

 and this is the insect which a man wants to 

 fight in his apple trees. 



The best general remedy for the core 

 worm, or codling moth, according to infor- 

 mation furnished by the Vermont experi- 

 mental station, is Paris green. Some apple 

 growers use London purple ; others use 

 white arsenic ; but they amount to the same 

 thing. They all poison the core worms. 

 Other insecticides like hellebore, kerosene 

 or sulphur, are not eff"ective in this case. 



In the hands of the average man Paris 



green is the best medicine for the codling 

 moth. The poison should be thoroughly 

 mixed with water at the rate of a quarter 

 of a pound to the barrel — that is about one 

 pound of paris green to 160-200 gallons of 

 water. About a pound of lime ought to be 

 added to each barrel of water, which will 

 prevent scalding of the foliage. It should 

 be applied with a spray pump and fine nozzle. 

 In case Bordeaux mixture is used on the trees 

 the Paris green may be added directly to that 

 solution at the rate already recommended. 



The first spraying for the codling moth 

 should be made as soon as the blossoms 

 fall, or within a week afterward. It is very 

 important to do this before the little apples 

 begin to hang down their heads, as after 

 that time they do not catch and hold the 

 poison. — Vermont Experimental Station. 



