TIMELY TOPICS FOR THE AMATEUR. 



433 



never, however, be put on brick flues, or on 

 stove or furnace pipes in the greenhouse, 

 or anvwhere so that it comes in contact 

 with direct fire heat, as the fumes of burnt 

 sulphur, even if very slight, will soon 

 destroy a whole collection of plants. Flour 

 of sulphur can be sifted finely on the foliage 

 of plants affected with mildew, to ad- 

 vantage. 



Purchase Dutch and other winter and 

 spring flowering bulbs as early as you can. 

 •Select firm, clear looking bulbs of good 

 medium size, in preference to large bulbs 

 that are not firm and solid. Pot the bulbs 

 into ordinar}- potting soil ; the top of the 

 bulb should be just below the surface of the 

 soil when potted. Water thoroughly once 

 so as to moisten all the soil well and place 

 the pots in a cool dark shed or cellar for a 

 few weeks until the bulbs have made good 

 roots, when the pots can be brought into 

 the greenhouse as required. For bulbs 

 required for forcing, a frame placed outside 

 is a very good place to start root action. 

 Pots should be covered about an inch deep 

 in light soil or coal ashes and protected 

 from severe frosts. A covering of sand or 

 ashes will also benefit those started in a 

 shed or cellar, as it prevents drying out. 

 (For culture of bulbs see November number 

 of Horticulturist, 1899.) 



Early in the day is the best time for 

 watering and syringing plants at this season 

 of the year. A little fire heat will be 

 beneficial in damp, chilly weather, even if 

 there is no frost. Coleus, foliage begonias 

 and similar plants often suffer from damp- 

 ing off", if the temperature is allowed to 

 drop too low continuously. A temperature 

 of 50 to 55° at nigfht, and 60' to 75° in the 

 daytime will suit a general collection of 

 plants verj' well. Avoid extremes, either of 

 heat or moisture. Close the ventilators 

 early in the afternoon and avoid cold 

 draughts on the plants. Keep the floors 

 well dampened, it will obviate the necessity 



of syringing so often, a process that is 

 sometimes risky at this season when perhaps 

 there is no fire heat and the weather damp 

 and chilly. If you have no objection to the 

 smell of raw tobacco, sprinkle some stems 

 in places under the benches and renew the 

 supply every week or two ; this will keep 

 down green fly or aphis. Fumigating with 

 damp tobacco stems is the most eff"ectual 

 method of getting rid of these pests, but 

 unless carefully done, so as not to allow the 

 stems to burst into a flame, there is risk of 

 burning or scorching the foliage of tender 

 plants. Coleus, heliotrope, and Maiden 

 Hair ferns are very easily injured in this 

 way. The concentrated liquid " nicotine " 

 sold by seedsmen, is perhaps the best 

 preparation of the kind for amateurs. It 

 is cleaner to use, the fumes from it being 

 less pungent and disagreeable than from 

 raw tobacco. 



Sufficient potting soil, sand and leaf soil, 

 should be brought into the potting shed or 

 cellar, so as to be in good condition for use 

 during the winter. Secure a fresh supply 

 of sod for potting soil for use next season. 

 Sod should be cut three or four inches 

 thick, taken from where the soil is loamy, 

 and stacked up neatly. Two thicknesses of 

 sod and one of well rotted stable, or cow- 

 manure, is the best nucleus for a potting 

 comport obtainable. The layers of sod and 

 manure, as mentioned, can be continued 

 until a sufficient quantity has been secured. 

 The sod should be stacked with the grassy 

 side downward. 



Window Plants. — The window should 

 be well furnished now with plants for 

 autumn and winter effect. If a few 

 geraniums have been grown on specially 

 for winter flowering, and not allowed to 

 flower during the summer, the window will 

 look bright and gay with their showy 

 trusses of bloom until the early winter 

 flowerir»g bulbs and other plants commence 

 to flower. Roman hyacinths will be the 



