470 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



that go into winter quarters soon die in the 

 spring, so that while the plant seems to be 

 the same, it has new roots, new leaves and 

 a new crown. This shows the importance 

 of getting all the growth possible during the 

 growing season, taking good care of the 

 plants through the winter, and getting the 

 new growth started as soon as possible after 

 the crop is secured. 



SOIL. 



The best soil you have that is available 

 will be found just right for the strawberry. 

 The plant needs plant food and moisture, 

 and if these be supplied it is immaterial 

 whether the soil be light or heavy. If it be 

 very sandy or gravelly it will be harder to 

 keep it moist. If too low, there is more 

 danger from late frost. If just south of a 

 building or a tight board fence, the plants 

 may get more reflected heat than is good 

 for them, and if in the neighborhood of large 

 trees their roots will run under the plants 

 and deprive them of food and moisture. 

 Many a strawberry bed has been ruined by 

 the roots of trees from one to two hundred 

 feet away. 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. 



Make it fine and firm. If the soil be deep 

 it may be plowed or spaded to a good depth 

 provided it is made fine and compact after- 

 wards. It is much better not to plow at all 

 than to leave lumps and cavities. Plants 

 will not do their best in too loose a soil. 

 They may make a good growth, but they 

 will not bear well. A cavity of any size 

 directly under a plant will prevent it bloom- 

 ing at all. I have set plants on ground that 

 was trenched thirty inches deep, and on hard 

 soil with only three inches of the surface 

 made fine, and had good success in both 

 casss. The soil loses its water mostly by 

 evaporation, and I am unable to see why the 

 plant can not get its water just as well within 

 a few inches of the surface as a foot below, 

 provided the ground is mulched. 



The ground should be rich in potash and 

 phosphoric acid. It is not best to apply too 

 much nitrogen, as it causes a rank growth 

 of foliage and runners, with little or no in- 

 crease in the crop of fruit. If the intention 

 is to plow up the bed after bearing, nitrogen 

 may be applied liberally after the berries are 

 formed. Stable manure may be applied 

 during the winter with decided advantage. 

 No lime should ever be put on land for 

 strawberries. 



PLANTING. 



The time to plant in the summer and fall 

 is just as soon as you can get plants and 

 damp soil. Each day's growth adds to the 

 crop. It is well to remember, however, that 

 the hot and dry weather of July and August 

 are very unfavorable for newly set plants, 

 and the chances of having the plants make a 

 steady growth from the start — which is very 

 important — are much better if the planting 

 be deferred until September, when we are 

 likely to have more moisture in both the soil 

 and the air. Very young runners planted 

 any time in September will produce as large 

 berries as if planted much earlier, but not so 

 many of them. It is well to remember that 

 any check to a strawberry plant during the 

 growing season is quite serious. For this 

 reason it is safer to plant later than to get 

 the plants out early and have them remain 

 at a standstill on account of heat and drouth. 



After getting the ground prepared, it is 

 worth considering what kind of plants to use. 

 It is generally conceded that runners of the 

 present year's growth should be used, but I 

 have known several growers who preferred 

 the old plants that have just fruited. I have 

 used them myself with good success. A 

 young runner is considered merchantable as 

 soon as its roots are branched. These are 

 the plants most generally used. A most 

 excellent method is to take these young 

 layers and transplant them into mellow soil 

 a few inches apart, where they can be shaded 

 and watered for a few days. In a week or 



