CULTURE AND ADAPTATION OF THE DAFFODIL OUTDOORS. 



OIL. — The daffodil will thrive in any 

 ^^* ordinary garden soil, but prefers a 

 deep, rather moist loam. When 

 the soil is of a dry sandy nature, it 

 should be deeply dug, rotten stable manure 

 should be added, and a potato or other crop 

 taken off before planting. If this is not 

 convenient, then place the manure at least 

 twelve inches deep, so as to be out of the 

 reach of the bulbs ; the manure is used not 

 as a stimulant but as a sponge to hold 

 moisture in the soil. The ammoniacal pro- 

 perties of manure are injurious to the 

 daffodil, hence great care is necessary in 

 the use of it. 



Freshly dug soil should be allowed to 

 stand vacant two to three weeks before 

 planting, to allow the ground to settle down, 

 otherwise the freshly planted bulbs are often 

 drawn under considerably below their proper 

 depth, and the bloom in consequence is 

 weakened and retarded. 



Best and safest manure to use is crushed 

 bones or basic slag. This should be applied 

 at planting time, and may be mixed with the 

 soil and placed next the bulbs ; the crushed 

 bones may be applied at the rate of 4 cwt. 

 to the acre, or i }-2 oz. to the square yard, 

 and basic slag may be applied in the same 

 manner at the rate of i ton to the acre, or 

 7}'2 oz. to the square yard. We recommend 

 the basic slag in preference to the crushed 

 bones, it being more reliable, and a good 

 manure for all lands ; on very poor and dry 

 sandy soils we recommend in addition 

 sulphate of potash to be sprinkled annually 

 in the autumn over the surface of the 

 ground, or after planting, at the rate of 

 2 cwt. to the acre, or about ^ oz. to the 

 square yard. The potash not only increases 

 the depth of color in the flowers, but also 

 helps to hold the moisture in the soil, a con- 



dition so essential to the perfect develop- 

 ment of the daffodil. 



In early spring, as soon as the daffodils 

 begin to show above ground, the surface 

 should be well broken with a hoe, to sweeten 

 it after the heavy winter rains. 



Planting and Lifting. — The best time to 

 plant to obtain the finest flowers is from end 

 of August and during September, although 

 bulbs may be planted as late as Christmas 

 with very satisfactory results. They may 

 be lett undisturbed for three years in ordi- 

 nary good loamy soils, but on poor and 

 light soils they are better lifted every two 

 years, as soon as the foliage has died down, 

 and replanted as early as is convenient. 

 Never plant when the ground is wet and 

 sticky, wait until it is dry or friable. Do 

 not put silver sand around the bulbs of 

 Narcissi except in the case of N. corbularia. 



Depth to Plant. — The average depth to 

 plant is from 2 to 3 inches, that is to say, a 

 covering of two to three inches of soil, but 

 not more. As the bulbs vary considerably 

 in size, according to the relative varieties, 

 the best rule to go by is the bulb itself, 

 which should be covered with soil once and 

 a half its own depth, measuring the bulb 

 from the collar of its neck to its actual base. 



Position and Grouping for Effect. — All 

 daffodils prefer partial shade, although 

 most of them will grow equally well in the 

 open. In the flower border, to obtain the 

 best effect, daffodils should be planted in 

 large groups of irregular outline, each 

 group or clump to contain one variety only ; 

 avoid straight lines, circles and symmetrical 

 designs. Masses of daffodils should always 

 appear in the hardy flower border, where 

 irregular and effective sweeps can be 

 planted between the clumps of herbaceous 

 plants which in their turn grow up and hide 



