482 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



as well as shelter the daffodil foliage while 

 it is going to rest. In grouping, the season 

 of flowering should be borne in mind, as the 

 varieties bloom in succession from the end 

 of February to the end of May, during 

 which period a constant succession of flower 

 is obtainable by a judicious arrangement. 



Varieties specially suitable for naturalis- 

 ing in grass, woodlands, etc. — These are 

 all free seeders, and will therefore spread 

 naturally ; they are mostly natural hybrids 

 — Abscissus, Achilles, Countess of Annesley, 

 Golden Spur, Henry Irving, Obvallaria, 

 Spurius, Thomas Moore, English Lent Lily, 

 Princeps, Scoticus, Variformus, Albicans, 

 Pallidus, Praecox, Moschatus of Haworth, 

 (very pretty in grass), and Poeticus of the 

 Pyrenees. The varieties italicised we do 

 not recommend for the cultivated border, as 

 they deteriorate the second year, while in 

 grass or meadowland they flourish. 



Hints on Naturalising in Grass. — All 

 daffodils may be planted in grass with per- 

 fect success. To produce the best effect the 

 three groups should be kept separate ; thus 

 the Star Narcissi should not be mixed with 

 the Great Trumpets, nor the Poet's Narcissi 

 with the Star Narcissi. In arranging, make 

 the breaks large and bold, scattering the 

 bulbs over the ground broadcast with the 

 hand, and dibbling into the ground where 

 they fall. Avoid symmetrical lines or formal 

 circles as far as possible, as these are never 

 found in nature. 



Method of Planting in Grass. — Take a 

 stout wooden dibber (like a potato dibber) 

 with a strong tread ; make the hole in the 

 ground about six or seven inches deep, and 

 fill up with a good mixture of prepared soil 

 consisting of two-thirds loam and one-third 

 old leaf sod ; into this press the bulb, and 

 cover up the hole with some compost ; this 

 will give the bulbs a fair start, and success 

 is sure to follow. In planting under trees, 

 avoid places where the drip from the 



branches is greatest, also where the main 

 roots come close to the surface. 



CULTURE INDOORS IN POTS, ETC. 



Of the stronger growing sorts use three 

 to six bulbs, according to size of bulb for a 

 4^ to 6-in. pot ; of the small growing kinds, 

 such as N. Minimus, Nanus, Minor, Cycla- 

 mineus, Triandrus, Juncifolius, and Corbu- 

 larias, use twelve to eighteen bulbs for a 4^ 

 to 6-inch pot. These small-flowered dwarf- 

 growing species are most charming in pots 

 or little shallow pans. The following may 

 easily be had in bloom in January — N. mini- 

 mus, minor, nanus, and Cyclamineus, and 

 these may be mingled with Chionodoxas, as 

 both bloom at the same period and produce 

 a charming contrast. The White Hoop 

 Petticoat Narcissus should be potted in al- 

 most pure sand kept well moist, and may 

 be had in bloom shortly after Christmas. 



If daffodils are wanted in quantity for 

 cutting early in the season, plant thickly in 

 boxes five or six inches deep, and only just 

 cover the bulbs with soil, using ordinary 

 potting soil. The pots or boxes should then 

 be placed out of doors on a firm bottom 

 such as a bed of ashes or a gravel path and 

 be covered with six inches of ashes or 

 cocoa-nut fibre. When the bulbs have filled 

 the pots or boxes with roots and made an 

 inch or two of top growth, portions should 

 be removed indoors in succession, selecting 

 first those which flower naturally early. 

 First place in a cold frame or cool green- 

 house, and when the flower buds are well 

 advanced shift to a slow forcing house when 

 they should have abundance of water and 

 plenty of air. The plants should be kept 

 as near to the glass as possible, and not al- 

 lowed to get down from an insufficient sup- 

 ply of light or air. On no account should 

 bottom heat be given. 



A charming effect is obtained by growing 

 daffodils in fancy bowls, simply using cocoa 



