March, 191 1 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



57 



ture will do the work equally as well as 

 the home-boiled if it is used at the same 

 strength. Lime-sulphur is cheaper than 

 Bordeaux. 



SPRAY CALENDAR 



1. .Before or as buds are bursting spray 

 with lime-sulphur without poison at about 

 one to nine or ten ; hydrometer test of 

 specific gravity, 1.030 to 1.03c, for scale, 

 blister, mite, canker, scab, and destroy- 

 ing the eggs or young larvEe of leaf-eat- 

 ing insects. 



2. Just before the blossoms burst, lime- 

 sulphur, one to thirty-two, hydrometer 

 test i.oog specific gravity, add two 

 pounds arsenate of lead to each forty gal- 

 lons of the mixture. 



Bordeaux, four, four, forty, with four 

 ounces of Paris green or two pounds of 

 lead arsenate, may be used. This appli- 

 ration is to kill all leaf-eating insects 

 just hatching, as caterpillars, case bear- 

 ers, canker worms, bud moths and can- 

 kers, and to ensure the setting of fruit by 

 warding off the scab. 



3. As soon as ninety per cent, of the 

 blossoms have fallen, use same as num- 

 ber two, or slightly weaker. Lime-sul- 

 phur, specific gravity 1.008, or Bordeaux 

 three, three, forty, but the amount of poi- . 

 son should be the same. This is the most 

 important spray for codling moth, and 

 also destroys leaf eating nisects and pre- 

 vents scab and canker. 



Spray thoroughly, forcing the liquid 

 into the calyx of the blossoms. The ar- 

 senate of lead doubles the efficiency of 

 lime-sulphur as a fungicide. 



A fourth application of number three is 

 frequently necessary in about three weeks 

 to check the codling moth and scab. 



For curl leaf of the peach, spray with 

 the strong lime-sulphur solution. For 

 the peach rot, spray with the self boiled 

 lime-sulphur and arsenate of lead at inter- 

 vals of ten days or two weeks. 



Buy a pump of adequate capacity. It 

 should have sufificient power to go over 

 the orchard in three or four days. There 

 is only a week at most when the trees can 

 be sprayed for codling moth, and bad 

 weather or unavoidable delays will pro- 

 bably reduce this to three or four days. 

 Use a Friend style of nozzle for dormant 

 spray and force it into the calyx of the 

 blossoms. 



Be sure and have good hose, as there 

 is much inferior hose on the market, and 

 a power outfit will give a pressure of two 

 hundred pounds. The higher the pres- 

 sure, the more material used and the 

 faster the trees will be sprayed. For 

 twenty acres or over use a power plant. 

 If the spraying is to be done at all, it 

 must be done quickly. 



Starting an Orchard 



Fr. M. Leopold, O.C 



The fir.st thing to do about starting an 

 orchard, is to plan for it. A slow start 

 is. much better than a poor start. The 

 ideal spot for a proposed orchard is gen- 

 tly sloping land, somewhat higher than 

 its surroundings. When a frost or a del- 

 uge comes it quickly runs off on to the 

 lower lands. Proper frost drainage is 

 just as important as good water drainage, 

 even more so. Because water can be 

 tiled away ; frost cannot. Some growers 

 prefer a north or some other slope ; but, 

 says "Biggie," height of land is of more 

 importance than direction of slope. 

 SELECT PROPER SOIL 



Carefully study the question of soil in 

 its relation to the variety of fruit to be 

 grown. Some kinds of fruit do best on 

 hcht soil, some do best on heavy soils. 

 The, difference between a sandy or a 

 clayey location may mean the difference 

 between success and failure. 



Apples will do well on almost any soil, 

 provided that it be somewhat elevated 

 and sufficiently well drained. Very high 

 sand or swampy muck, would be least 

 desirable ; a loamy, clay soil most desir- 

 able. 



Cherry trees do best in a light soil, 

 well drained, but not too dry ; sandy, 

 loamy or gravelly soil will do. 



The ideal pear soil is a rather heavy 

 clay loam with a well drained subsoil. 

 Heavy clay does well if the under-drain- 

 age is sufficient. Light or sandy soils 

 are not so good for this fruit. 



•Extract from an address delivered at the 

 annual meeting of the Quebec Pomological Ss- 

 i-ie.t.v hold in St. Ilyacinthe. Que. 



,R., La Trappe, Que. 



Plums do well almost anywhere, if the 

 ground is not to wet. This fruit, how- 

 ever, will stand much more moisture than 

 the cherry. A clay-loam, rather moist, 

 but without stagnant sub-soil water, 

 would be ideal for the European and nat- 

 ive varieties. The Japanese plum does 

 better on a light soil. 



SETTING TREES 



In the province of Quebec early spring 

 is the best season to set an orchard. The 

 farther north the safer it is to practise 

 spring planting and after all that may be 

 said about fall planting, the best rule thai 

 can be given to a planter who is not an 

 expert, is to stick to spring planting. 



Most planters make the mistake of set- 

 ting their trees too closely together. It 

 seems to them no better than an extrava- 

 gant waste of ground to set little spind- 

 ling trees so many feet apart, and it re- 

 quires some imagination to think that the 

 trees will ever completely occupy the 

 ground. As the man stands off to sur- 

 vey his newly-set orcahrd, it actually 

 seems as if there were nothing there, but 

 if he could see that same orchard a few 

 years hence, in his mind's eye, he would 

 surely see the wisdom of giving each tree 

 plenty of "elbow-room". 



On the other hand, I do not believe that 

 in Quebec, where our winters are severe 

 and trees do not profit comparatively as 

 fast as in Ontario, in planting trees too 

 far away. 



Never cut a limb from a tree unless 

 you know just why you do it. 



It is a mistake to neglect an orchard 

 when it is not producing a crop of fruit. 

 .An orchard neglected for a year virtually 

 puts it back three years. 



AjHsrit Powar Sprajrar (Hurst) in Operatioi 



