106 



THE BEE-KEEPER'S REVIEW 



nail both ways, but I soon abandoned 

 this. I also formerly used soft pine, but, 

 as that became so high in price, I now 

 use what my dealer calls Arkansas, hard 

 pine. He claims it is much softer than 

 the Carolina hard pine, and not so likely 

 to split or check when nailing. I now 

 make my hives out of this class of lumber 

 which cost me, last spring, S2 25 per 100 

 feet. That which I bought last spring 

 was of good quality, almost entirely free 

 from knots. I have it cut at the factory, 

 where it costs me 50 cents an hour. I 

 have the lumber cut so as to simply nail 

 the corners together like a dry goods box. 

 I use the eight-penny box nails in nailing 

 the hives, excepting at the top where the 

 rabbet is cut; there I use six-penny 

 nails. In nailing up 20 hives last spring 

 there was not a nail that caused a check; 

 and in nailing up these hives there was 

 not one out of square, or in wind. I in- 

 sisted and emphasized the fact that I 

 wanted the cutting done accurately, and 

 I got it well done. 



I formerly used tin rabbets, but, years 



ago, abandoned them; much preferring 

 the plain rabbet. 



For the covers and bottoms I use floor- 

 ing of the same kind of lumber that cost 

 me S2 25 per 100 feet. It is so matched 

 that it will work either side up. I have 

 both the covers and bottoms cut the same 

 length, then select for the covers pieces 

 which are free from defects, and match 

 them together, nailing a two-inch strip 

 across each end. one on the upper and 

 one on the lower side. This makes a 

 reversible cover that has given me no 

 trouble in warping. 1 also nail two strips 

 on the under side of the bottom board, 

 one at each end. I nail strips of plaster- 

 ing lath on the upper side of the bottom 

 board for the hive body to rest on. 



I give my hives two coats of white lead 

 and zinc paint, and the covers never leak. 



I find that by making my hives this 

 way that they cost me much less than if 

 1 bought them of a factory, and. at the 

 same time, 1 have a good, solid and ac- 

 curate hive. 



Huntington, Ind., Jan. 24, 1910. 



In Combating Black Brood, Italian Blood is 

 The Most Efficient Weapon. 



S. D. 



l^rUCH that is 

 ^^^ written of 

 foul brood is 

 lacking in help- 

 fulness because 

 the writers fail 

 to designate the 

 k ind of foul 

 brood, or neglect 

 to emphasize the 

 principle factor 

 that has led to 

 success. There is a vast difference be- 

 tween black brood (European foul brood) 

 and American foul brood; the former 

 being more virulent and destructive, yet 

 yielding to milder treatment. What I 



HOUSE. 



have to say in this article will have refer- 

 ence to European foul brood. 



About four years ago 1 discovered 

 some diseased brood in a colony that had 

 been purchased the previous autumn. 

 The same day that I made the discovery, 

 one of the inspectors called, pronounced 

 it "very suspicious," and advised treat- 

 ment by the shaking method. That 

 evening, hoping to prevent any spread 

 01 the disease, the whole colony, bees, 

 brood, combs and hive, was buried deep 

 in the earth. But I was doomed to dis- 

 appointment, as, during the season, eight 

 more colonies showed the disease in a 

 mild form. 



The next spring my troubles began in 



