1902] Samoan or Navigator Group 



and the cruel reefs; copra (dried meat of the coconut) 

 creates their economic value. 



Down through the dense greenery leap clear, Aviriiahu 

 dancing streams with deep pools where lurks the /'^^'■y^^"'^ 

 agile sesele or mountain bass, while under the white 

 waterfalls laughing girls disport themselves. Along 

 the shores sway bending palms; from every vantage 

 point one sees blue water meet blue sky, and ever 

 to the ear comes the low growl of surges along the 

 barrier reef.^ And all about (at least in olden days) 

 swarms a joyous people with shining skins of yellow- 

 bronze — straight and strong as Greeks; simple as 

 children also, happy, affectionate, irresponsible, and 

 human. 



There are four principal islands in the Samoan (or 

 Navigator) group. Savaii, the largest and geologi- 

 cally the youngest, forty-five by thirty miles, lies to 

 the west, its primitive, creative volcano not yet cold. 

 Next comes Upolu, forty by fifteen, richest in coco Apia on 

 trees and arable land, with Apia, the largest town in ^'^°^'' 

 all Samoa, nestling at the foot of Vaea mountain 

 sacred to lovers of "R.L.S." Apia's broad U-shaped 

 harbor, peaceful enough except in the season of 

 hurricanes, is half choked with its great reef through 

 f which the waters of the river Vaisigano cut their 

 way in a deep, tortuous, jagged gorge, only wide 

 enough to admit ships in single file.- 



Tutuila, fifty miles east of Upolu and twenty p ago p ago 

 miles long by five wide, encloses the finest harbor in °« TumUa 

 all the South Seas — that of Pago Pago,^ a huge, 



1 A barrier reef is one not connected with the shore, from which it is sepa- 

 rated by a channel or lagoon. Fringing reefs extend from the beach outward. 

 I In Samoa all reefs seen by me belong to the first class. 

 2 Fresh water kills the coral animals wherever it touches them, thus forming 

 a sharp break in the reef. 



3 Pronounced "Pango Pango." See note. Chapter xxvi, page 18. 



C 99 3 



