191 On to Korea 



the Inland Sea. Awaji, according to a very early 

 legend, was the first fruit of the marriage which gave 

 birth to all the various islands of Japan. 



From Kobe we moved via Shimonoseki to Korea The Land 

 (Chosen), "the Land of Morning Calm," in search "{;^^;"^ 

 of new scenes and looking forward, at the same time, 

 to a temporary suspension of speech making. Reach- 

 ing Fusan about daylight, we were welcomed by the 

 mayor, Mr. Awaya, and Eitaro lijima,^ now a cus 

 toms official, flanked by a line of jinrikishas, each 

 provided with a leopard-skin lap-robe. lijima an- 

 nounced that he had been deputed by Governor- 

 general Terauchi to serve as our escort. A Pullman 

 car with buffet was also placed at our disposal for the 

 length of our stay. 



A tour of the interesting city, Korea's open door 

 from Japan, included a visit to certain progressive 

 schools. In one of these we saw a vigorous Japanese 

 girl teaching European dances to the children, while 

 she counted in Chinese: "Yip, ni, sam, si, gor, dok." 



Time being limited, we went directly to the capi- Seoul 

 tal, the old city of Seoul. The way lies among rounded 

 heights long since denuded and gashed by the wash of 

 rain. In the narrow valleys appear little villages of 

 mud and stone huts clinging like gigantic scale in- 

 sects to gray slopes. Seoul itself (Japanese, Keijo) 

 lies in a picturesque situation in the midst of a group 

 of low, rolling hills by the side of a considerable river. 

 To the east rises a splendid mountain range of red 

 rock covered with green pines, over which clambers 



^ One of the three students who came back with me to Stanford in 1900. 



: 387 3 



