19 hH Along the Riviera 



vacation. This now unfashionable resort, sheltered 

 from the dreaded mistral, offers in its restful charm a 

 striking antithesis to the feverish lure of Monte Carlo. 

 In the parlor of the hotel, by request, I spoke on inter- 

 national peace before a varied audience of winter 

 visitors, mainly English — including several army 

 officers. As a whole my hearers were friendly and 

 appreciative, although a few seemed to think a gen- 

 eral war desirable in order to "clear the air." 



Hyeres being the most southerly '^ Station Hiver- 

 7iale'' of the Riviera, at the close of our sojourn there 

 we turned back to Cannes, though not without several 

 stops on the way. First, Cavalaire detained us with 

 its fine curving beach and quiet beauty; next, Sainte 

 Maxime, an ancient town, about which still ply as of 

 old the white-winged, lateen-rigged craft; then, Frejus, Frejus 

 once a great Roman residential center and thus "a 

 veritable open-air museum" of antiquarian remains; 

 finally, Agay in the edge of the red, pine-clad heights 

 of the Esterel, which thrusts its ruddy arm — Cap 

 Roux — into an incredibly blue sea. 



At Agay we spent a shivery night "centrally The golden 

 heated" by a single pipe; but next day we basked in ^^y^'^^J'l^i 

 miles of sunshine on the beautiful "Corniche d'Or" 

 cut into the glowing rock, a very pleasurable excur- 

 sion troubled only by the knowledge of impending 

 separation. 



In Cannes I established my family at the Villa Cannes 

 Sainte Rose, a comfortable house on the hill above the 

 city, occupied by Theophile Galland, a retired clergy- 

 man, and Madame, his good wife. Then, having trav- 

 eled to Genoa, on January 22 I boarded the Kleist, 

 Norddeutscher Lloyd, bound for Java and inter- 



c 559 :] 



