FRUIT CULTURE. 751 



some time before being used, such as very early in the spring, during the winter, or even in 

 the autumn. As soon as cut, they should be put in a dark, damp place, to prevent drying. 

 The best method is to bury the lower ends in the ground in a dark part of the cellar, or cover 

 them entirely with fine soil in the cellar until wanted for use. Some recommend that they 

 be cut in the fall, when the leaves are fallen and wood is ripe, and be preserved through the 

 winter by burying them in the earth in a dry soil, below the reach of the frost. In cutting 

 the scions for use, the most thrifty and straight shoots of the previous season s growth should 

 generally be selected, although it is claimed by many that there are special advantages to be 

 derived from using wood of two seasons growth. Each scion should contain at least two 

 buds when subdivided, but they should not be subdivided until ready for use, as they will 

 remain in a more thrifty condition if left entire until that time. In cutting, an inch and a 

 half or two inches of wood should be left above the last buds, to prevent them from drying 

 up by the shrinking of the wood. Never select scions, however vigorous they may seem, 

 from a sickly and unhealthy looking tree or branch, as such will be very likely to develop an 

 unhealthy condition in their future growth. In selecting from old trees, always choose the 

 most vigorous of the last season s growth that are found near the center or top of the tree, 

 since these will be apt to have mo/e natural vigor than those growing from the side branches. 

 Those taken from the lower bearing branches are thought by many to produce fruit soonest, 

 but they will not prove as vigorous or thrifty as those from the center or top of the tree, 

 neither will they produce trees of so fine a form as the latter. When practicable, choose the 

 scions from young, thrifty trees in preference to old trees, however vigorous they may seem. 

 Care in selecting good scions will well repay by the after- vigor and healthfulness of the trees. 



The Kind of Stock for Grafting Upon. Although scions or buds of different 

 kinds can be made to grow upon a variety of other trees, yet they will thrive best and prove 

 most productive when grafted upon those for which they have an affinity, and to which they 

 are allied. There should therefore be a relationship between the stock and the scion, the 

 structure of the wood being similar, such as the varieties of the same species, as the different 

 kinds of apples grafted upon each other; next removed from this would be the grafting of 

 the different species of a genus, as the apple and the pear, in which case there will be a 

 growth, but not as complete and permanent as with those of the same species. Farther 

 removed still would be a union of the genera of the same natural family, such as the cherry 

 and the plum, which scarcely ever survives the third season. Apples are usually grafted on 

 to apple or crab seedlings for standards, or dwarf stock for dwarfs; such as the Paradise 

 apple, or Doucain s pears on pear seedlings for common culture, or quince for dwarfs; peaches 

 on those of their own kind; apricots on apricot seedlings or plum; nectarines on the peach 

 or plum, etc. Trees to be grafted should have been standing at least a year, as newly 

 transplanted trees will not give as good results. Trees to be grafted should always be thrifty 

 and vigorous. 



The Best Time for Grafting, The proper time for grafting fruit trees is in the 

 spring, as soon as the sap commences circulating. This varies with different varieties, being 

 much earlier with the cherry and plum than with the apple and pear. The time also varies, 

 of course, with the season and climate, but is generally from February to the middle or last 

 of April. The most favorable weather for grafting is a mild temperature, with occasional 

 showers, which prevent the drying up of the scion before a sufficient union takes place 

 between the woody parts to enable the latter to be nourished by the sap of the tree into 

 which it is grafted. Root grafting is frequently practiced in the house in winter or early 

 spring, the roots afterwards being placed carefully in a damp cellar until the time of planting 

 them out in the spring. This method, however, is only when the root is small, and the whole 

 of it is devoted to supplying nourishment to the graft. 



