754 THE AMERICAN FARMER. 



sorts in this manner, always being sure to leave at least three buds on the scion, and when 

 set in the ground having two eyes well covered with the soil. The two principal points to 

 bear in mind in this mode of grafting are to press the surfaces to be joined closely together, 

 so that a union can be easily effected, and to set the scions deep in the soil. Dahlias and 

 peonies may be grafted upon each other, by inserting young shoots into the neck of one of 

 the fleshy roots of each kind respectively, the cut for the insertion being triangular in shape 

 and made at the upper end of the root. It should be just large enough to admit the young 

 shoot, when cut at the end in a wedge shape, to fit the incision. 



Grafting Wax. The best kind of grafting wax is made of equal parts of tallow, 

 beeswax, and resin melted together. Its quality is greatly improved by thoroughly working 

 it with the hands when cold. A little more tallow than the other ingredients will render it 

 more pliable, if desired. Some prefer a larger proportion of resin than the above named. 

 This wax may be applied directly to the graft, or it may be spread with a brush when in a 

 melted state, upon cloth or paper, which may be afterwards cut into suitable strips for 

 wrapping around the wound. Grafting clay is sometimes used in place of grafting wax, 

 but the latter affords a much better protection, besides being neater, and is greatly to be 

 preferred. Liquid grafting wax may be made ready for use and kept in a bottle for years, 

 by heating one pound of resin slowly, and adding one ounce of beef tallow; when a little 

 cooler, stir in a tablespoonful of spirits of turpentine, and then add seven ounces of alcohol 

 while still warm. Should it become thickened by keeping, it may be thinned by warming 

 slowly, and adding more alcohol. 



Budding. Although a different process from the modes of grafting previously 

 described, budding does not differ from either in its nature or effects, the principal difference 

 being that in grafting we use a scion having several buds, together with a quantity of bark 

 and wood, while in budding but a single bud is used, to which a small quantity of bark and 

 wood are attached. The advantages of budding, compared with those of grafting, consist in the 

 rapidity with which the former may be pel-formed; the more convenient season for doing it, 

 since it can be delayed beyond the hurry of spring work in the nursery or on the farm; of 

 its being done without injury to the branch; and the opportunity of repeating it on the same 

 stock if the first effort proves ineffectual. The season for budding trees in this country is in 

 the summer, from the first of July to the middle of September, the earlier trees requiring it 

 sooner than those that open their leaf and blossom-buds later. Budding may also be done in 

 the spring. In all cases the bark must separate easily from the stocks that are to be budded, 

 so that it may be lifted without injury. The principal methods of propagating by this means 

 are shield and annular budding. 



Selecting Buds. It is highly important that the buds for budding trees be taken from 

 healthy, vigorous shoots, and well developed. Mr. Downing says: &quot;In choosing your buds, 

 select thrifty shoots that have nearly done growing, and prepare what is called a stick of buds, 

 but cutting off a few of the imperfect buds at the lower, and such as may be yet too soft at 

 the upper ends, leaving only smooth, well-developed single buds; double buds being fruit- 

 buds. Great care is essential in selecting buds, as often, even on sticks cut from young trees, 

 and especially from bearing trees, many of the single buds will be found developed into 

 fruit-buds, and are therefore unfitted for use. The form of a wood-bud is always long rather 

 than round, and, in the case of peaches, there are sometimes triple buds, the centre one of 

 which is always a wood-bud. Cut off the leaves, allowing about half an inch of the foot 

 stalks to remain for conveniently inserting the buds.&quot; 



Shield Budding. With this method, an incision is made in the stock from an inch 

 to an inch and a half in length, and at the top of this a cross is made, the whole forming 

 the letter T. The north side of the stock is usually taken for this purpose, when convenient, 



