FRUIT CULTURE. 819 



to a depth of from four to six inches, except close in among the roots, when an inch or two 

 in depth is sufficient. The use of a small plow is also of great advantage in keeping the soil 

 well stirred. Even in the &quot;hill system &quot;the ground should be kept level, not hilled up 

 around the plants. 



When using the &quot;matted row&quot; system, the cultivator should always be run in the same 

 direction, after the runners appear, one or two paths north, and the next one or two towards 

 the south, etc., and should be narrowed each succeeding time as the plants spread, until only 

 a path a foot wide is left. A solid bed of plants, three or four feet wide, will thus be formed 

 quicker and easier than if the young plants are disturbed by pulling round the runners in 

 opposite directions. When following the &quot; matted hill &quot; system, it is also well to drive always 

 in the same direction for the same paths after the runners appear, and to narrow the cultiva 

 tor as the &quot; matted hill &quot; becomes larger. 



Watering ill a Drouth. One good watering, once or twice a week, in the morning 

 or evening, is better than ten times as often if improperly done. The proper way to do is to 

 draw away a little of the soil from one side, or from around the plant, and allow a pint or 

 more of water to soak in around the roots. Afterwards replace the dry soil that was 

 removed, and there will be no complaints about the ground baking, while the soil underneath 

 will keep moist for some days longer, on account of the mulching of dry loose earth on top. 

 A slight watering on the surface often seems to have the effect of burning up or dwarfing 

 the plants. Old fruit or tomato cans, with a small hole in the bottom, and sunk a little ways 

 into the soil at one side of the plant, and filled occasionally with water, are excellent for 

 giving a steady supply of moisture. 



Mulching Strawberries. This should be done a month or two before the time of 

 fruiting, in order to keep the green and ripe berries from being spattered with sand or mud 

 during rain storms. It also assists in retaining moisture in the soij, and, consequently, in 

 obtaining much larger berries. Any refuse material will answer, such as cut grass, marsh 

 hay, straw, cornstalks, sorghum, coarse manure, pine needles, leaf mould, leaves, etc. To be 

 of any special benefit the mulching should be applied at least two inches thick and one foot 

 wide on each side of the plants, while it is better, if possible, to have it twice as thick and 

 wider. Tan-bark or saw-dust (if rotted) can be used, but should be gathered up after the 

 fruiting season, unless on clayey soils. Boards with or without other mulching, are excellent 

 for keeping the soils moist, and also from getting hardened during the picking season. At 

 the extreme south the mulching should be placed around the plants earlier in the season, and 

 kept on during the summer, changing it from one path to another, if any cultivation is 

 performed. If a few young plants are wanted, then the runners may be allowed to take root 

 in an occasional vacant path. 



Growing Large Berries, Much, of course, depends upon the variety; but, having 

 selected the right kinds, it is not difficult to improve greatly over the ordinary ways followed. 

 Apply well-rotted barnyard manure from one to three inches thick, and have the ground 

 spaded or plowed deeply even twelve or eighteen inches if the soil is good, and in a way to 

 mix thoroughly the manure with the soil. A quart or two of bone-dust or other fertilizer to 

 each square rod may afterwards be spread broadcast, and mixed six inches down, but it is 

 not necessary. Cultivate or hoe frequently during the spring and summer, keeping the 

 runners closely cut. Give winter protection, and hoe or dig the ground three or four inches 

 deep previous to time of blossoming in spring. In May, mulch the plants well, and a rich 

 reward will duly appear. Extra-sized berries can also be often obtained by removing one-fourth 

 or one-half of the fruit stems to each plant, and clipping out a number of the inferior berries 

 on each stalk. Old fruit cans, arranged to let the water out slowly, will help to swell the 

 fruit to large proportions, if placed near the plants, and frequently filled with water. Half a 



