76 TUDOR HOUSES IN DORSET. 



and border ; the aperture for the neck was cut square, and a 

 broad girdle with rosary and pomander worn. 



About 1525 short wide furred sleeves came in, with a linen 

 partlet at the neck, and the ends of the front lappets of the 

 head dress are turned up. 



In the reign of Edward VI the Paris head and close-fitting 

 cap depressed in the centre came into vogue. The gown was 

 opened below the waist, exposing the embroidered under 

 gown ; puffed sleeves covered the shoulders, and the partlet 

 was surmounted by frills. During the latter part of Queen 

 Elizabeth's reign the lappet was turned over the top of the head. 

 There was also a hood, the ruff grew large and the skirt was 

 distended by a farthingale. Hats were of the Welsh type. 

 In Queen Mary's reign white lace came in, and it became still 

 more popular in her sister Elizabeth's time; but it was all 

 foreign, and really good English lace was not made until 

 Anne's reign, Huguenots having introduced it. [Costume on 

 Brasses by H. Druitt]. See also portraits by Hans Holbein 

 (1497-1543), Nicholas Hilliard (1537-1619) and Isaac Oliver 

 (1571-1617). 



EMBROIDERY. 



Before the Reformation this was as a rule confined to 

 ecclesiastical work and was of a very high quality, of which 

 there are some exquisite specimens in the South Kensington 

 Museum and a piece from Bindon Abbey in the Museum at 

 Dorchester. After that epoch the splendid costumes and 

 household hanging curtains and covers were lavishly worked. 

 In Henry VIII's reign gloves were much worn, and a pair of his 

 used for hawking is at Oxford. Elizabeth was also very fond 

 of them and accepted them as official gifts. Edward Vere, 

 17th Earl of Oxford, first introduced 'embroidered gloves and 

 perfumes from Italy. (Hone's Year Book IV, 362). 



Dainty shoes covered with fine petit point work, caskets, 

 book-covers, and pocket books, all wonderfully worked, are 

 still preserved. 



