THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



171 



same during the first fifteen or twenty 

 yeare. It can easily be shown that 

 the pLmting of a given quantity of 

 land with this species of tree will give, 

 in from fifty to one hundred years, a 

 larger profit on the investment than 

 would any other legitimate investment 

 in Ontario. 



2nd. The Canadian Walnut is not 

 the same as the nut of commerce, com- 

 monly called the English Walnut. 

 The Canadian Walnut tree is the Black 

 Walnut, Juglans Ki<jra. The desert 

 nut known as the English Walnut is 

 the product of the Juglans Regin, an- 

 other branch of the Juglandacea family. 



3rd. Much depends on the proximity 

 of its neighbours. If the trees are 

 grown near together they will be tall 

 and slender ; but if allowed plenty of 

 room, 45he diameter of the top will 

 about equal its total altitude. The 

 general form of the head will be round, 

 loose and open. 



4th. A rich clay soil, worked as 

 deeply as possible. 



5th. At this place the thermometer 

 often registei'S above 90 in summer, 

 and below 35 in winter, and Walnut 

 trees are perfectly healthy. 



Gth. I have several trees measuring 

 over 24 inches in circumference, 12 

 yeai*s old. 



7th. From the middle to the end of 

 October. 



8th. The Walnut tree, like most of 

 the nut-bearing tree^s, are more difficult 

 to transplant than seed-bearing trees. 



9th. You will probably be more suc- 

 cessful by planting the nuts than with 

 the young trees. Perhaps it would l>e 

 better in your case to plant both nuts 

 and trees. The nuts must be planted 

 in the foil of the year, and as soon 

 after the nuts can be obtained as pos- 

 sible. liCt them be in the ground by 

 the 1st of November. The ti-ees mav 



be transplanted either in the spring or 

 fall. 



10th. I cannot answer this question. 

 Nurserymen having Walnut trees for 

 sale should advertize the fact in the 

 Canadian Horticulturist. 



11th. Same reply as above. 



12th. If you want them simply for 

 shade trees, I should say from 40 to 50 

 feet apart ; but if for planting for tim- 

 ber, I would recommend planting the 

 nuts in rows four feet apart, and two 

 feet apart in the row. Each alternate 

 tree in the row can be removed for 

 transplanting purposes in two or three 

 years, leaving the standing trees four 

 feet apart. In from five to ten years 

 each alternate tree can again be taken 

 out, and also all the trees in each alter- 

 nate row. What is left will then be 

 eight feet apart. In 15 or 20 years, 

 the thinning can again be done, as last 

 mentioned, thus leaving the standing 

 timber 16 feet apart. This will be ail 

 the thinning out required. 



13th. Let the land be thoroughly 

 subsoiled to a depth of 20 inches. If 

 the land is then in proper condition to 

 grow an ordinary grain crop, no manure 

 will be required. T. B. 



Lindsay. 



PEACHES AND OTHER FRUIT AT 

 AYLMER. 



To THE Editor of the Canadian Hokticlltikist. 



Dear Siu, — Can you tell mftwh«atis 

 the matter with my peach trees ; see 

 enclosed leaf. I have only to look from 

 where I am writing, and see that all 

 peach trees look yellow, and on closer 

 inspection all the leaves are like the 

 enclosed. One of my neighbour's trees 

 are the same, and not only his peaches, 

 itut his pears. In his instance not only 

 the leaves, but the young peal's are just 

 the same. It is worse on a splendid, 

 tlirifty young Clapp's Favorite. My 

 l)eai"S are all right. Can it be the 



