184 The Canadian Horticulturist. 



exceedingly numerous on the leaves. A pailful of kerosene emulsion was pre- 

 pared, and each rose bush was inverted and dipped into it and held there about 

 a quarter of a minute, or long enough to allow the emulsion to reach every insect 

 on the bush. In immersing it in this way the pot was held in the left hand 

 with the right hand over the top, to prevent the earth from falling out. An exami- 

 nation of the bushes two days later failed to reveal a single plant louse or red 

 spider, and none appeared on them during the remainder of the season, thus 

 proving that the work was thorough and effectual. When rose bushes are too 

 large to be treated in this way they may be showered. 



The Hatch Station prepares kerosene emulsion in the following manner : — 

 One quarter of a pound of common bar soap is dissolved in two quarts of boil- 

 ing water, and while still hot four quarts of kerosene oil are added, the whole 

 mixture being then churned through a small hand force pump, with a small 

 nozzle turned into the pail. This churning must be continued about five min- 

 utes, until the whole forms a creamy white mass, which becomes jellylike when 

 cool. Care must be taken to have the solution of soap hot when the kerosene 

 is added to it and the churning done, but it must not be near a fire. 



Before applying the kerosene emulsion to plants it must be diluted with 

 water in the proportion of one quart of the emulsion to nine quarts of water 

 which must be thoroughly mixed. The above will make sixty quarts of the 

 insecticide ready for use. The emulsion will keep for a long time without injury 

 and may be diluted when needed for use. This insecticide is one of the best 

 substances for the destruction of vermin on domestic animals and in henhouses. 



COMPOST FOR ROSES. 



The best soil for roses is what is known by gardeners as a rich hazel loam 

 of a moderately firm texture. Cut it with a spade from three to nine inches 

 thick, according to quality. Where it can be had in the form of old sod, clear 

 of trees (as decaying leaf mould is absolutely injurious to roses), it is so much 

 more valuable. In soil as described above, the roots of the grasses will form a 

 dense fiber all through it, sometimes ten to twelve inches deep ; then I prefer to 

 take the whole depth, and if a yellow clay below should add some to the com- 

 post. The next thing required is well-decomposed cow manure ; this, if possible, 

 should be at least one year old. This on hand, commence your compost heap, 

 to every eight or nine loads of good loam, adding one load of equal size of 

 manure, and so continue until enough is collected for the season's use. Where 

 the soil is inclined to be heavy, add one part to ten of good sharp sand as you go 

 along ; let it lie a few days to get settled. If it heats, so much the better. Turn 

 the whole over and beat it up fine with digging forks ; if it is not considered rich 

 enough, add a little pure ground bone, as it is mixed to go into the houses, and 

 you have a compost that will grow good roses if judicious care is taken of the 

 plants. — American Florist. 



