April, 1922 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



87 



Gladioli of Recent Introduction" 



H. L. Hutt, Georgetown, Ont. 



1. Anna Eberius (Diener, 1917) — 

 Dark velvety purple, throat of deeper 

 shape; large flo\ii;ers on tall spikes. 



2. Anthony B. Kunderd (Kunderd, 

 1918) — Large ruffled flowers of deep 

 cream color, overspread with a pink 

 blush; lower petals primrose-cream, 

 flushed-pink at edges. 



3. Byron L. Smith (Kunderd, 1917) 

 — Lavender-pink on white ground, col- 

 ored like a cattleya orchid. 



4. Bertrex (Mrs. Austin, 1914) — A 

 beautiful glistening white ; tall and vig- 

 orous. 



5. Catherina (Velthys, 1916)— An 

 excellent light grey-blue, lower petals 

 a little darker with brownish-red spot; 

 tall spikes. 



6. Crimson Glow (Betscher, 1916) — 

 A deep, brilliant crimson ; flowers large 

 on tall, graceful sipikes. 



7. David Starr Jordan (Diener, 

 1917) — Very large, bright red or flame- 

 colored flowers. 



8. Evelyn Kirtland (Mrs. Austin, 

 191G) — A beautiful shade of pink deep- 

 ening towards the edges; large, wide 

 open flowers on tall, graceful spikes. 



9. Flora (Velthuys, 1917)— A large, 

 light, golden yellow; ranks next to the 

 famous Golden Measure as the best 

 yellow. 



10. Gretchen Zang (Mrs. Austin, 

 1915) — A glistening rosy-pink; stems 

 grew crooked during the hot weather 

 last summer, but in the cooler season, 

 later, the blooms were exceptionally 

 fine. 



•The list on this page of some of the best 

 gladioli of recent introduction was given by 

 Mr. Hunt, who is a member of the Committee 

 on Names and Varieties of the Ontario Horti- 

 cultural Association, at the recent convention. 



11. Herada (Mrs. Austin, 1916) — 

 Another of Mrs. Austin's "Big Four"; 

 pure mauve; large flowers; a vigorous 

 grower. 



16. L'Immaculee — An early pure 

 white, which does not tint in the sun. 

 Many flowers open at once. 



13. Jack London (Diener, 1917) — 

 Bright salmon with flame-colored 

 stripes and yellow throat. A good 

 grower and great multiplier. 



14. Lady Borden (Gilchrist) — A Can- 

 adian variety; large, creamy-white 

 flowers with large crimson blotch in the 

 throat; blooms late. 



15. Liebes Feuer (Velthings, 1912) — 

 A brilliant scarlet; tall spikes and 

 many flowers out at once. 



16. Le Mareehal Foch (Van Demsen, 

 1919) — A Holland variety said to be a 

 seedling of America; flowers much 

 larger than American, of about the 

 same shade of lilac-pink. As early as 

 Halley, and as good a multiplier. 



17. Loveliness (Van Kongnenburg, 

 1912) — Large, creamy-white flowers 

 tinted pink. A beauty, appropriately 

 named. 



;8. Mrs. Dr. Norton (Kunderd) — 

 Large silvery-white flowers tinted with 

 pink, deeping towards the edges, with 

 sulphiu:-yellow centre; an aristocrat 

 among the gladioli. 



19. Mrs. Watt (Crawford)— Ameri- 

 can Beauty rose, solid self-color. 



20. Myrtle (Kunderd) — Delicate 

 rose-pink, shading to creamy-white in 

 centre; very dainty. 



21. Prince of Wales — A clear, salmon 

 pink; large flowers, blooming very 

 early. 



A Well-planned Flower Border. 



''ui^' Pawner, Peterboro, Ont., separated his lot from his neighbor by a low cement curb. 



wnich also forms the outer edge of the flower border shown. In this border last year were 



^rrown petunias, nicotlana, geraniums, verbenas, nasturtiums and Canterbury bells. The bed 



along the wall of the house Is planted to perennial phlox. 



22. Pride of Hillegom — Another fine 

 variety from Holland; large, bright 

 scarlet flowers on tall spikes. 



23. Summer Beauty (Kunderd) — 

 Clear, salmon-pink; long spikes; a 

 strong grower. 



24. Violet Glory (Kunderd)— A self- 

 colored, deep, rich violet ; flowers large 

 and slightly ruffled. 



25. White Giant — Very large, pure 

 white flowers, with pointed spreading 

 petals. Lily-like in appearance. 



Planting Strawberries 



W. S. Blair, Kentville, N.S. 



Planting strawberries is done by 

 pushing a spade into the soil, pressing 

 it to one side and dropping a plant with 

 roots spread fan-shape into the open- 

 ing. Hold the crown of the plant to 

 the top of the level soil and press the 

 earth firmly arouHd the plant with the 

 heel. Finally level with loose earth 

 aroun*the crown of the plant. This is 

 quickly done. The importance of 

 pressing the soil firmly around the 

 plant is great; The plant should be suf- 

 ficiently firm, so that if it is pulled by 

 a leaf, the latter will break before the 

 plant will pull out. 



Only young plants should be set; 

 that is, plants of the previous season's 

 growth. The planting should be done 

 early, in fact, the earlier the better. 

 Much of the failure with strawberries 

 is due to late planting. This is a job 

 that can be done in the early spring. 

 The sooner the plant becomes estab- 

 lished, the earlier the formation of run- 

 ner plants. The earlier the runner 

 plants form, the larger and better de- 

 veloped are the crowns, without which 

 strong stalks of well formed fruit are 

 impossible. 



The growth on all newly purchased 

 climbing roses usually requires to be 

 well cut back when planted, leaving 

 only about twelve to eighteen inches in 

 length of the base of three or four main 

 steins. Cut out any small weakly 

 shoots to their base. 



To prune bush roses, remove all 

 dead wood first. Cut out all weak 

 shoots that start from the ground, 

 leaving sufficient of the stronger ones. 

 Then cut back about two-thirds of the 

 length of the last season's lateral or 

 side growth, leaving short spurs a few 

 inches long at the base of the last sea- 

 son's growth. Leave one or two 

 strong, young, one year canes, that 

 start from near the ground each year, 

 to keep the bush supplied with young, 

 strong, vigorous growth. Very old 

 wood three or four years old may be 

 cut out to make room for the young 

 growth. 



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