112 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



Floral EJdition 



many, the following may be planted : 



Deciduous trees — White or swamp 

 elm (Ulmus Americana), a most ma- 

 jestic tree; tulip tree (Liriodendron 

 tulipifera), a handsome tree in flower 

 and foliage, not hardy north; cucum- 

 ber tree (Magnolia acuminata), like 

 the foregoing, and has very attractive 

 cucumber-like red fruit; black walnut 

 (Juglans nigra), attractive foliage and 

 form, with edible nuts. 



Conifers or Evergreens — White 

 spruce (Picea Canadensis), has very 

 attractive glaucous foliage and form; 

 white pine (Pinus strobus), long, lived 

 and picturesque; red cedar (Juniperus 

 Virginiana) ; and common juniper 

 communis) ; both splendid in groups 

 or singly; of conical shape; white or 

 swamp cedar (Thuja occidentalis ; 

 fine for hedges or windbreaks, and 

 stands trimming well. 



Ornamental flowering shrubs — 

 Burning bush or strawberry tree 

 (Euonymous atropurpurea). It has 

 most interesting red and tango-colored 

 fruit in fall; highbush cranberry 

 (Viburnum opulus); splendid in fall 

 when covered with purplish-green 

 foliage and scarlet berries. 



Deciduous climbers — Bittersweet 

 (Celastrus scandens), wonderfully at- 

 tractive in fall with red and yellow- 

 winged fruits. 



Wild Flowers — The hepaticas, tril- 

 liums, orchids (lady's slipper and 

 moccasin flower) ; adder's tongue 

 (Erythronium Americanum) ; marsh 

 marigold (Caltha palustris) and 

 Lobelia cardinalis; these and many 

 more are worth planting, and are more 

 beautiful than many exotic plants. 



Exotic or Foreign. 



Deciduous trees — Maiden-hair tree 

 (Ginkgo biloba). Oriental and class- 

 ical; copper beech (Fagus purpurea), 

 the best colored foliage^ tree, but only 

 hardy in warmer districts; cutleaf 

 birch (Betula laciniata pendula) and 

 cutleaf maple (Acer laciniata), the two 

 best weeping trees; Schwedler's Red 

 Norway maple (Acer Schwedleri), a 

 splendid tree with compact head and 

 red foliage in early summer, later 

 purplish-green; Norway maple (Acer 

 platanoides), a fine street tree. 



Conifers — Silver fir (Abies con- 

 color), a most graceful conifer; blue 

 spruce (Picea pungens), splendid for 

 formal planting; dwarf mountain pine 

 (Pinus mugho), excellent for founda- 

 tion use; pyramid and globe cedar 

 (Thuja pyramidalis and globulus), for 

 formal and foundation planting. 



Shrubs — There are so many varie- 

 ties which are deservedly popular, as 

 spiraeas in variety, new types of lilacs 

 (Syringa vulgaris variety) ; many 

 honeysuckles, as Lonicera fragrantis- 

 sima; weigelias, as Diervilla Eva 



Rathka; deutzia, as Deutzia Lemoine 

 and crenata variety ; Japanese bar- 

 berry (Berberis thunbergia), the best 

 dwarf shrub for hedges or effect; also, 

 varieties of Forsythia, cydonia, pru- 

 nus, philadelphus, Chionanthus Vir- 

 ginica, althaea, and others. 



Perennial climbers — The following 

 are worthy: — Boston ivy (Ampelopsis 

 veitchii) is the best self dinger. Cle- 

 matis Jackmanii is first-class. Wis- 



taria sinensis, with its long racemes, 

 is a great acquisition in warmer sec- 

 tions like Niagara. 



Roses. — The best climbers and hy- 

 brid teas are indispensable. 



Perennials. — Plant the best varieties 

 of paeonies, iris, phlox, delphiniums 

 and asters. 



Annuals. — These have a place 

 whether it be for formal or informal 

 planting. 



Roses for Best Bloom 



Ella C. Morton, Niagara Falls, On^. 



THERE is no secret about rose 

 culture. The first requisite is 

 rich, deep ground. The next is 

 to keep the ground rich. If these 

 points are observed, there will be less 

 complaint about diseases. Sturdy, 

 well-fed plants are seldom attacked by 

 disease, and suffer less from the depre- 

 dations df insect pests than their 

 weaker neighbors. 



. The rose bush should be planted in 

 a wide, deep hole, in soil that has been 

 thoroughly worked over to a depth of 

 at least two feet, and well enriched 

 with rotted stable manure. If the soil 

 is sandy, it is well to work in a little 

 clay. A mulch of old manure should 

 be applied each fall, and spaded into 

 the soil each spring. Frequent appli- 

 cations of manure water during the 

 summer will help to keep the plants 

 blooming continuously — if they are the 

 right varieties. If stable manure is 

 not easy to get, wood ashes and bone 

 meal may be dug into the ground to 

 good advantage. Keeping the plants 

 well fertilized is the first point in the 

 successful growing of roses. 



Prune First at Planting Time. 



The next thing to remember is the 

 fact that rose bushes need severe prun- 

 ing back. Vigorous cutting back each 

 spring will result in strong shoots, 

 which will produce fine crops of flow- 

 ers. The first surgical operation 

 should be performed when the plants 

 go into the ground. Let us say that 

 they should be cut back to the third 

 bud, probably leaving them about nine 

 inches above the ground. Sounds like 

 drastic treatment, doesn't it? Ask your 

 neighbor, who always has a wealth of 

 roses, and see what he says about it. 

 If you want to grow really fine blos- 

 soms, you will continue to cut the 

 bushes back in the same proportion 

 every spring. That is an elementary 

 rule in rose growing, and yet not one 

 amateur in forty practices it. No one 

 has a right to expect good flowers on 

 straggly old plants that are expending 

 all their energies on wood growth. It 



isn't wood you want, or leaves, but 

 blossoms. 'Then, prune! 

 , Roses are thirsty plants. They need 

 a lot of water, but you will not need 

 to carry it all. Cultivate the ground 

 around the plants, instead. Ctltiva- 

 tion forms a dust mulch, which keeps 

 the water in the ground, where the 

 roots can get it. If the surface of the 

 ground is allowed to become baked 

 hard in the sun, the soil moisture is 

 lost by evaporation. Water must be 

 given, and given freely ; but cultivation 

 is just as necessary. When you give 

 water, put it on by the gallon. You 

 waste your time otherwise. Make a 

 little barricade of earth, so that the 

 water will not run off, but sink into 

 the ground. As soon as the ground is 

 dry, stir the surface with a hoe. Really, 

 it is worth while to feed and water 

 roses carefully. 



About Choosing Varieties. 



Even with this carefully given at- 

 tention, there will be comparatively 

 little satisfaction in growing roses un- 

 less the kinds are chosen which have 

 a long season of bloom. With the 

 right sorts, however, roses tended in 

 the fashion described above, will sure- 

 ly provide a full season of the most 

 exquisite delight. There is no reason 

 why amateurs should not have blooms 

 from spring until the icicles form. 



Of course, the man who has exten- 

 sive gardens will set aside one section 

 exclusively for roses, and will grow a 

 hundred varieties, including those 

 which give a brief, but unparalleled^ 

 show in the spring. There are rose 

 sensations — wonderful blossoms which 

 lift the expert rosarian into the sev- 

 enth heaven of ecstacy. They are not 

 for the average man. Most of us want 

 roses which will produce large, hand- 

 some flowers all the season through. 

 We may have but half a dozen plants, 

 anyway, and we want every one tO' 

 count. We want blossoms which we 

 can cut by the dozens and carry into- 

 the house. We want fragant blos- 

 soms, in which we may bury our faces 

 and find a blessing in their perfume. 



