1922 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



135 



pil, the furrow may be filled with dry 

 oil and the surface cultivated. 



Water intelligently, no matter what 

 lie method of application. Do not 



rater too often, 

 rhen you do. 



but water thoroughly 



Pointers on Thinning 



\ ARDENERS usually sow more" 

 m seeds than are necessary, under 

 ^"^ the expectation of getting a fuller 

 tabd, or at least of having enough, 

 'his results in no particular harm, ex- 

 epting the waste of seed, provided the 

 lants are thinned before they begin to 

 rowd each other. 



Peas very seldom need any thinning, 

 s they will thrive when planted quite 

 lose together. Beans plan'ted five seeds 

 the hill and the hills 12 inches apart 

 ?ill not need to be thinned, but if six 

 r seven seeds have been dropped, it 

 /ill be desirable to thin them, leaving 

 nly four or five in a hill. Corn should 

 Iways be thinned to three or four 

 talks in a hill, the weaker being pulled 

 ut, leaving only the best. If beans 

 nd corn are planted in drills instead of 

 ills, they will not need much thinning 

 nless carelessness in sowing has pro- 

 uced too thick a stand. 



Radishes, unless too thick, can be 

 Uowed to stand, thinning being ac- 

 omplished by pulling up plants for 

 able use as they reach edible size. 

 «ttuce is generally sown entirely too 

 Ijick. To thin the bed, the small or 

 ledium-sized plants can be pulled out 

 nd used. Some of the plants may be 

 fted and transplanted, spacing them 

 )ur to six inches in each direction, so 

 lat they will develop into distinct heads 

 jr later use. 



Beets are usually planted too thickly, 

 artly due to the fact that" each seed- 

 all contains two or three seeds, and, 



as a rule, every one of these seeds grows. 

 They should be thinned to stand not 

 closer than two inches in the row. Still 

 later, every other beet should be pulled 

 out. This last thinning can be postpon- 

 ed until beets are large enough to use. 

 Carrots and parsnips also often are 

 sown too thickly, and must be thinned. 

 The thinning should be done just as 

 soon as the plants are large enough to 

 pull out, and as they are thinned, a little 

 loose soil should be worked in around 

 the plants that are left. Two or two 



and one-half inches is about the right 

 distance to leave the carrots and three 

 to five inches for parsnips. If the seed 

 has been sown in a rather broad drill, the 

 plants can be left a little zigzag or ir- 

 regular in the row, and a larger number 

 of plants accommodated. The distance 

 between individual plants, however, 

 should not be less than two inches 

 Even then, some of the carrots should 

 be pulled as soon as they are large 

 enough to use, in order to give the re- 

 mainder a chance. 



How to Grow Celery 



T. W. Sheward 



ALL the cultivated varieties of 

 celery are descendants of the 

 wild celery, Apium graveleens, a 

 native of England, where it grows wild 

 in damp places near the coast. Celery 

 is a profitable crop to grow, as there is 

 always a good demand in winter. One 

 grower near Montreal clears $1,000 per 

 acre from celery alone. The varieties 

 most grown are, — White, Plume, Sut- 

 tons A, I, Giant Pascal, and Winter 

 Queen 



Seeds are sewn in hotbeds for early 

 crops, and in the open in rich soil for 

 late winter and spring use. The seed- 

 lings are planted out any time from 

 June to the first week in August, the 

 planting being done on dull days. There 

 are several ways of growing celery. The 

 old way of planting in trenches and 

 filling them up with earth, (I), and (G), 

 in the accompanying diagram, and then 

 banking up each side of the row with 

 earth (H), is very good for garden use. 

 When planting in trenches, good soil 

 should be placed at the bottom of the 

 trench to give the young plants a start 

 as shown at (D). Then, as the plants 

 grow, they are tied up (E), and later, 



■ 



METHODS OF GROWING CELERY 

 may be grown in acvcrnl (lifTeiciit ways especially such as arc sliown in the nliove diagram. The explanation 

 of the diagram is given in the article. ' How to <;row Celery." 



about October, are banked up with 

 soil to cause them to blanch. In 

 November, if the celery is to be left 

 outside all winter, leaves are placed 

 over the bank 1 foot thick to protect 

 it from frost. 



Other ways of growing celery are 

 shown at (A) (F) and (J) in the diagram. 

 (A), shows a way of growing on the 

 level, between rows of peas or other 

 tall crops This is blanched by tying 

 brown paper around the stalks as shown 

 at (A). Some self-blanching sorts, 

 (Golden Self -blanching), can be grown 

 close together (F), in blocks, and 

 blanched by placing boards around|the 

 sides as shown at (J). 



Timely Reminders 



For roses, a general purpose fertilizer 

 is good. Well-rotted manure is best. 

 If this is not available, use a blood and 

 bone combination. 



Rose bushes should be trimmed real 

 early in the spring. Cut the Bush back 

 at least one-half of the growth it made 

 the year before. 



Phosphate of potash is a good stimu- 

 lant for sweet peas at blooming time. 

 To every 25 feet of the rows, apply one 

 ounce dissolved in two gallons of water. 



Aster plants from which seed is to be 

 saved should be selected early in the 

 season, when the first flowers have 

 developed. Select the best types pos- 

 sible and keep the small blooms cut off. 

 Save seed only from the largest and best 

 developed flowers. Cut the flower heads 

 when the seed is nearly ripe, dry them 

 thoroughly before putting away for the 

 winter. Keep seed in a dry cool, i)lace. 



The essfiilial thing for the new patch 

 of brambles, during the first season is to 

 provide moisture and promote a vigor- 

 ous growth. This is best done by tillage. 

 Cultivate shallow for all brambles of 

 shallow rooting. Deep cultivation in- 

 creases suckerine. Tillage should be 

 stopped after the fir'^t "'" Vns^iist to 

 ripen the cane. 



