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August, 1922 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIS' 



167 



Transplanting the Perennials* 



R. P. Brotherstone 



^ TT needs not to be said that hardy plants 

 I become too big to fulfil the object of 

 having them in a garden — the object 

 of producing a profusion of flowers of 



I good quality — and before they become 

 so crowded with growths it is important 

 to divide and replant them. At this 

 season the chief plants that demand at- 

 tention in this way are pyrethrums, irises 

 and herbaceous peonies. 



I grow single pyrethrums only, and 

 these are ready first to operate on. The 

 soil of sizable clumps is apt to become 

 hard and dry by the time flowering is 

 over, unless a more than usually copious 

 rainfall moistens it. Usually it may be 

 necessary to soak the clumps for 24 hours 

 previous to dividing them, when it is 

 easily accomplished without damaging 

 either fohage or roots. Each clump 

 should be torn into halves by means of 

 two forks working against each other. 

 Then the soil can be washed from the 

 roots, and the pieces separated by hand 

 and into sizes according to the wish of 

 the operator. They should be planted, 

 according to the nature of the soU, from 

 ^2 inch to 1 lower than the spring of the 

 leaves, and a reasonable quantity of 

 manure should be worked into the soil 

 when planting. One soaking of water 

 will generally be sufiicient. In beds for 

 cutting not less than nine inches should 



Bitt allowed for interspaces. 



H Iris 



^Hn northern gardens, June planting of 



^^pes is not possible, because they are, 



Wmless of the earlier sorts, s till in flower 



nor are their new roots formed till the 

 next month, so that, at the earhest, 

 division must not be attempted until 

 July. I have established them success- 

 fully with all the old rhizomes and their 

 roots removed, but probably most will 

 incline to leave an inch or two of rhizome 

 with its roots, which, however, super- 

 fluous otherwise, at least helps to steady 

 the young plant until new roots in suffi- 

 cient number are produced to effect that 

 object. Sometimes a quite short stick 

 may be required for ensuring stability, 

 especially when the blades are very 

 strong. 



The soil, if at all loose, should be slight- 

 ly firmed before planting, and, as the 

 rhizomes run along the surface, planting 

 should be only deep enough to give the 

 pieces a grip of the soil. When set, all 

 that is needed to firm them is a slight 

 pressure with the tip of one's boot, the 

 pressure being a little forward as well as 

 downward, so firming each tightly. The 

 distance to plant should be not less than 

 one foot apart. As to watering, that, of 

 course, depends on the weather, but never 

 more than a very slight application to 

 each set is required, and that only till 

 root action has become vigorous. A thick 

 mulch of rotted manure should not be 

 omitted, and renewed annually. 

 Peonies 



Later than these, peonies are ready to 

 be divided. It may be found necessary 

 to soak old plants in water similarly to 

 pyrethrums, and in any case it is worth 

 while to wash most of the soil off the 

 roots previous to breaking them up. 



Here, again, two forks should be em- 

 ployed, not only to halve them, but also 

 to subdivide them into smaller pieces fit 

 to plant. Peonies are gross feeders, and 

 the ground for a fresh plantation should 

 be manured to a depth of six inclies with 

 rotted cow-dung, and in addition to that 

 a thick layer applied to the surface and 

 worked in while the operation is pro- 

 ceeded with. The stems of the leaves 

 should be tied together to prevent break- 

 age, and every care taken to save the 

 roots, the washing of which will be found 

 of great advantage to that end. Once 

 planted, a stout stake is needed to which 

 to tie the plants, and an abundant supply 

 of water poured about each to moisten 

 the ground all round and to a fair depth. 

 A thick mulch of cow-dung should be 

 'applied to the plants each spring before 

 growth pushes, an inch or two of soil 

 being previously scraped on and returned 

 on top to prevent birds from scratching 

 and to hide the dung. I should have 

 added that at least three feet should 

 separate the plants when setting them 

 out, and to preserve the flowering stems 

 from growing crooked a ring of string 

 supported on sticks should be run around 

 the large plants before the stems are 

 much in evidence. 



Prairie Queen occuiiicn the trellis, while the round bed In the centre is plontcl to Genir.il McArthiir. Ophelia, Anierican 

 Beauty, with Madame Planticr for centre piece. Part of the tine roac garden of Henry Bertram, IJundas, Oot, 



August Notes 



The oriental poppy is not dead just 

 because its foliage has dried up and dis- 

 appeared. Now is the time to take up 

 the plants to transplant. The roots may 

 be cut up for propagating purposes. 



Constant clipping or spudding on the 

 lawn and hoeing in the garden will 

 keep the weeds within bounds. 



Mildew may be kept off phlox by using 

 sulphide of potassium one ounce to a 

 gallon of water sprayed over the plants. 



Dahlias should be fertilized once a 

 week while the buds are swelling. They 

 are gross feeders. 



Seed pods should be removed from 

 shrubs and perennials as fast as the 

 flowers ripen and wilt. This will make 

 stronger plants for next year. 



Tulips which have been planted out 

 in. ripening beds after ihey were 

 through blooniing, .should now be 

 lifted, cleaned off and packed hi shal- 

 low boxes until thoroughly dry. Do not 

 expose to the sun. 



Aster plants from which sued is to 

 he saved should be selected early in the 

 season when the first flowers have de- 

 veloped. Select the best types possible 

 and keep the suiail blooms cut off. Save 

 seed only from tlie largest and best de- 

 veloped flowers. When the seed is 

 nearly ripe, cut the flower heads and 

 dry them thoroughly before putting 

 away for the winter. Keep the seed 

 in a dry, cool place. 



