August, 19M 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



169 



What Shall We Plant in the FaU 



W, T. Macoun, Dominion Horticoltorist 



HERE is such a rush in the spring 

 to get seed sowing and planting 

 done in good time that anything 

 that can be accomplished in the fall to 

 lessen the work in the spring should be 

 done and particularly where fall planting 

 is preferable. 



At the Experimental Farm, Ottawa, it 

 has not been found satisfactory, taking 

 one year with another, to plant trees of 

 any kind in the fall. Exposure to the 

 long, cold winter beginning shortly after 

 transplanting is not favorable to the trees. 

 Any which will be below the snow-line, 

 however, have a much better chance, al- 

 though in soils where there is danger of 

 heaving, late fall planting is imsafe. 



Shrubs and Perennials 

 When low-growing shrubs and her- 

 baceous plants are planted in the fall, 

 which is a good time, the sooner it is done 

 the better after the soil becomes moist 

 enough to ensure their not dying from 

 lack of moisture. When set out early, 

 the plants have a chance to take root 

 again before winter; and in the case of 

 herbaceous perennials to makt some 

 growth. 



Raspberries 

 Raspberries, gooseberries, and cur- 

 rants may be planted successfully in 

 I September. The advantage over spring 

 ■anting is, if any die they may be re- 

 ■aced in the spring, whereas if planted 

 B the spring it is too late to replace them, 

 I 



and a season's growth is lost. If straw- 

 berries are planted in the fall they should 

 be planted in September or before to en- 

 siu-e their rooting well and lessening 

 danger from heaving. 



Balbs 



As soon as bulbs can be purchased in 

 the stores they should, if desired, be pro- 

 cured and planted at once as the longer 

 time they have in the ground before 

 winter the better the bloom is Ukely to 

 be in the spring. The bulbs referred to 

 include tulips, narcissus, hyacinths, cro- 

 cus, squills, and other hardy kinds. 

 Rhubarb and Asparagus 



The fall is a good time to plant both 

 rhubarb and asparagus. They may be 

 planted with success any time between 

 now and winter. 



Seeds 



Usually there are good results from 

 planting seeds of herbaceous perennials, 

 trees, and shrubs in the fall. The action 

 of the frost, especially on tree and shrub 

 seeds, makes germination easier. When 

 seeds of perennials are planted in the fall 

 it is best to wait until just before winter 

 sets in to make sure that the seed will 

 not germinate before winter as if seed 

 germinates a short time before winter 

 the seedlings are Uable to be killed. 

 Seeds of trees and shrubs, however, and 

 especially of fruits, should be planted as 

 soon as ripe so as to prevent their be- 

 coming dry. Usually fall planted seeds 

 germinate very early in the spring. 



Repairing the Wounded Tree 





IN the case of really large trees that 

 demand attention it is perhaps wise 

 to secure some professional assis- 

 tance. For the owner doing his own 

 work, or who likes to have something 

 iO say as to how it shall be done, a little 

 owledge on the principles of repair- 

 ing is of great assistance in the actual 

 ■work. Wounds heal by means of a 

 billus forming on the growing tissue be- 

 ween bark and wood. The old wood 

 likes no part in the healing process, but 

 ■ just covered when healing is com- 

 plete. Dressing will not hasten the 

 process, but will keep the wood from 

 lecay, or in other words, the whole ob- 

 ject in dressing a wound is to protect 

 it. Simple methods of treating a tree 

 [ wound are cleaning and trimming. 



In cutting away stubs or diseased 

 branches, cut close to the base of the 

 liranch and wherever pos.sible let the 

 ;ul be parallel to the axis of the trunk 

 or limb. If the repairing is demanded 

 Ijy the splintering of a branch the same 

 kind of cut should be made. To help 

 l^^iic formation of the callus previously 

 ^^Hlentioned it is a good plan to trim the 



margin smooth with a sharp knife. That 

 the actual shape of the wound being 

 treated has some effect on the time re- 

 quired for healing is a point insisted 

 on by some tree experts, but this is 

 rather a matter for expert than 

 amateur attention. In the case of 

 damage by accident or the biting of 

 animals all ragged pieces of bark 

 should be cut off and the margin trim- 

 med smooth; in every case take away 

 any projecting strips of dead bark. 

 Waterproofing is the operation that 

 chiefly concerns the amateur repairer, 

 care or neglect in this connection hav- 

 ing a great deal to do with the healing 

 process expected. It should be remem- 

 bered that quick-growing trees heal 

 more rapidly than, say, an oak, and as 

 it is more particularly the latter kind of 

 tree that we usually want to save, it 

 follows that the greatest care should be 

 taken. Small cuts if properly done 

 need no treatment, but all larger cuts 

 on trees that are valuable should be 

 given some covering, the obvious rea- 

 son being to keep out the wet. The 

 paint merchants insist that pure paint 



is sterilizing in its action. If this be 

 correct a coat of paint on a tree wound 

 after trimmmg not only waterproofs 

 but disinfects. In any case, a simple 

 paint made of lead and linseed oil 

 makes a satisfactory coating for any 

 but large wounds, and if renewed occa- 

 sionally, is all, that is necessary. Coal 

 tar is perhaps more permanent; graft- 

 ing wax is sometimes used, though this 

 is usually counted out on the score of 



expense. 



Boards or flat stones placed under 

 melons will cause them to ripen more 

 evenly. Occasional turning of the melons 

 will also cause more even ripening. 



Watering the Gladiolus 



Mrs. Geo. A. Bonisteel, Belleville, Ont. 



AS the gladiolus is a hot weather 

 flower it is usually necessary to 

 provide water at some parts of the 

 season to get best results. 



Water is most needed as the blooming 

 period approaches, and if showers are not 

 sufficient to satisfy the plant's needs, 

 apply water, giving a thorough wetting. 

 Cultivate a few hours later, to prevent a 

 crust forming. If done in this manner, 

 it is not necessary to water again for 

 several days. ^ 



After bloomingT unless a severe drought 

 occurs, Uttle water will be required. 



^ ••*«*«•«•■ 



Timely Reminders 



Now is a good time to prune up cur- 

 rants and_^gooseberries. Old canes of 

 raspberries should be removed and burned 

 now. 



Towards the end of August, pinch 

 the growing ends off tomato plants, to 

 force all the nourishment into the 

 growing and ripening of the fruit, 

 which has already formed. 



Keep the aphis in check on nasturtums, 

 asters, etc., by spraying with tobacco 

 preparations like black leaf 40, nicoticide, 

 etc. 



Sweet pea flowers should be continu- 

 ally picked. If seed pods form the 

 plants will stop producing. Keep the 

 vines well watered. 



Most of the plant* intended for 

 winter growing will now need re- 

 potting. Those in the garden should 

 be gone over and prepared for lifting 

 in a few weeks. 



In the fall a dressing of well decom- 

 posed manure may be spread over the 

 lawn to stimulate the next season's 

 growth. A good substitute is com- 

 mercial fertilizer, 300 pounds to the acre. 

 If the lawn suffers from drought the 

 former is recommended. Occasionally an 

 application of nitrate of soda in spring is 

 worth while, using 250 pounds to the 

 acre in two sowings a few weeks apart. 

 —A. H. TomUnson, O.A.C., Guelph, Ont. 



