THE COOKERY OF APPLES 



BY THE EDITOR 



ROASTED APPLES 



IN that wise and witty volume, "The Original" of 

 Thomas Walker, the author quotes the remark of a 

 "foreigner" that "we have no ripe fruit in England 

 but roasted apples," and he follows this quotation by a 

 suggestion for a "greatly improved mode (of ripening 

 after this fashion), which was brought from Paris, and 

 which, when well managed, makes rather a rich dish of 

 rather an insipid one. Select the largest apples ; scoop 

 out the core, without cutting quite through ; fill the 

 hollow with butter and fine soft sugar ; let them roast 

 in a slow oven, and serve them up with the syrup." 



Whilst not agreeing that we have no other fruit 

 worthy of being called ripe, one becomes filled with 

 strange longings and cognisant of vigorous palatal tap- 

 pings as the vision of properly roasted apples comes 

 before the eyes of our consciousness. That is an ad- 

 mirable method which Walker suggests, for not only is 

 the fruit thoroughly cooked thereby, but that source of 

 annoyance, known as the core, which so mars the joy of 

 most eaters of roasted apples, is removed and replaced 

 by succulence and sweet savour. Do not follow the 

 Portuguese, who place water in the dish, nor copy those 

 sacrilegous folk who would add marmalade or lemon 

 juice to the cooked apple; for there are three things 

 only with which it will blend without loss of character. 



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