132 THE BOOK OF CHEESE 



cheese. The process admits of many minor modifications 

 each capable of affecting the product in a characteristic 

 way. The judgment and skill of the maker is given 

 a wide opportunity to establish and work toward a par- 

 ticular ideal of appearance and texture and flavor. Brands 

 with characteristic qualities, therefore, command their 

 own market. 



Brie as known in France must not be confused with the 

 American " dTsigny," or with the particular sizes of that 

 type which have been called Brie on account of diameter 

 only. Very little Brie as known in France has been made 

 in America and only a limited amount has been imported 

 for very restricted trade. 



154. Coulommiers. Another member of the Camem- 

 bert group is called, from its place of origin, Coulommiers. 

 This form is made at the same thickness as Camembert 

 and about 5j inches in diameter. It appears as either 

 a ripened or unripe cheese. As a ripened cheese, Coulom- 

 miers is not essentially different from Camembert except 

 that some brands are made without salting. As a cheese 

 eaten unripe, it has certain advantages over the other 

 cheeses with the flavor of sour milk only. The cottage 

 and (American) Neufchatel group of cheeses comprises the 

 best known forms with the acid flavor. These cheeses are 

 very perishable in nature. On the other hand, Coulom- 

 miers as eaten fresh can be held and used over a much 

 longer time without loss. Coulommiers 1 in this sense 

 is simply a fresh Camembert. Such a cheese, when ready 

 for the salting process, is a firm sour mass, close textured, 

 almost impervious to air and but slowly permeable to 

 liquids. Spoilage in such a cheese begins only on the 



1 McNaughton, J., Coulommier cheese, Dept. Agr. Ottawa, 

 Canada, Dairy and Cold Storage Ser. Bui. 25, 1910. 



