470 IN THE DIPLOMATIC SERVICE-II 



where in the palaces of Continental rulers, whether great 

 or petty, his columns of Siberian porphyry, jasper bowls, 

 or malachite vases signs of his approval of reaction. 



But, in justice to him, it should be said that there was 

 one crime he did not commit a crime, indeed, which he 

 did not dare commit : he did not violate his oath to main 

 tain the liberties of Finland. That was reserved for the 

 second Nicholas, now on the Russian throne. 



Whether at the great assemblages of the Winter Palace, 

 or at the reviews, or simply driving in his sledge or walking 

 in the street, he overawed all men by his presence. When 

 ever I saw him, and never more cogently than during that 

 last drive of his just before his death, there was forced 

 to my lips the thought: &quot;You are the most majestic being 

 ever created.&quot; Colossal in stature; with a face such as 

 one finds on a Greek coin, but overcast with a shadow of 

 Muscovite melancholy ; with a bearing dignified, but with 

 a manner not unkind, he bore himself like a god. And 

 yet no man could be more simple or affable, whether in 

 his palace or in the street. Those were the days when a 

 Russian Czar could drive or walk alone in every part of 

 every city in his empire. He frequently took exercise in 

 walking along the Neva quay, and enjoyed talking with 

 any friends he met especially with members of the 

 diplomatic corps. The published letters of an American 

 minister Mr. Dallas give accounts of many discussions 

 thus held with him. 



There seemed a most characteristic mingling of his bet 

 ter and worse qualities in the two promises which, accord 

 ing to tradition, he exacted on his death-bed from his son 

 namely, that he would free the serfs, and that he would 

 never give a constitution to Poland. 



The accession of this son, Alexander II, brought a 

 change at once : we all felt it. While he had the big Roma 

 noff frame and beauty and dignity, he had less of the 

 majesty and none of the implacable sternness of his father. 

 At the reception of the diplomatic corps on his accession 

 lie showed this abundantly; for, despite the strong decla- 



