564 IN THE DIPLOMATIC SERVICE-VI 



too quiet. What he wanted was evidently something in 

 the big, melodramatic style. I said nothing; but meeting 

 me a few days afterward, he said, Why don t you send 

 me my picture ? l No, I said ; Serene Highness, that pic 

 ture is mine. No, said he ; i you painted it for me ; it is 

 mine. No, said I ; I shall keep it. His Highness shall 

 never have it. 



My principal recreation was in excursions to historical 

 places. Old studies of German history had stimulated a 

 taste for them, and it was a delight to leave Berlin on 

 Saturday and stay in one of these towns over Sunday. 

 Frequently my guide was Frederick Kapp, a thoughtful 

 historian and one of the most charming of men. 



A longer pilgrimage was made to the mystery-play at 

 Oberammergau. There was an immense crowd; and, as 

 usual, those in the open, in front of our box, were drenched 

 with rain, as indeed were many of the players on the 

 stage. I had &quot;come to scoff, but remained to pray.&quot; 

 There was one scene where I had expected a laugh 

 namely, where Jonah walks up out of the whale s belly. 

 But when it arrived we all remained solemn. It was 

 really impressive. We sat there from nine in the morn 

 ing until half-past twelve, and then from half-past one 

 until about half-past four, under a spell which ban 

 ished fatigue. The main point was that the actors be 

 lieved in what they represented; there was nothing in it 

 like that vague, wearisome exhibition of &quot;religiosity&quot; 

 which, in spite of its wonderful overture, gave me, some 

 years afterward, a painful disenchantment the &quot;Parsi 

 fal&quot; atBayreuth. 



At the close of the Passion Play, I sought out some of 

 the principal actors, and found them kindly and interest 

 ing. To the Christus I gave a commission for a carved 

 picture-frame, and this he afterward executed beautifully. 

 With the Judas, who was by far the best actor in the whole 

 performance, I became still better acquainted. Visiting 

 his workshop, after ordering of him two carved statuettes I 

 said to him : i You certainly ought to have a double salary, 



