384 SUNDEY JOURNEYS AND EXPERIENCES-I 



day I left Washington for Bichmond and the far South, 

 and on the morning following was aroused at one of 

 the way-stations by hearing negroes singing in a neigh 

 boring car. They were happy at the prospect of break 

 fast, but a curious preliminary was that each came out 

 upon the platform, and, taking a currycomb which was 

 hung up for the purpose, curried himself, much as an 

 ostler administers that treatment to a horse every negro 

 grasping in his turn the large wooden handle and pulling 

 the iron teeth through his plentiful wool. 



Stopping next at Columbia in South Carolina, I saw 

 flagrant examples of carpet-bag rule; but of those in 

 the State-house I have already spoken. Here was a 

 focus of Southern feeling; and at the State University, 

 which was charmingly situated, and altogether a most 

 fitting home for scholars and thinkers, I was taken into 

 the library where formerly stood the bust of Francis 

 Lieber, once a professor in the institution. Never had 

 the South a wiser or better friend. In after years I knew, 

 loved, and respected him. No man with a deeper know 

 ledge of free institutions, or with greater love for them, 

 has ever lived in our country; but when the news came 

 to his old university, where he had been so greatly ad 

 mired, that he was true to the Union, his marble bust 

 was torn from its place, dishonored, and destroyed. 

 There could be no better illustration of Bishop Butler s 

 idea of &quot;a possible insanity of States. &quot; 



On Sunday, having been taken by one of the professors 

 in the university to a Protestant Episcopal church for col 

 ored people, of which he was rector, I was surprised 

 at the light color and real beauty of many of the women 

 present : nowhere, save in Jamaica, had I seen people of 

 mixed races so attractive. In Charleston there were on 

 all sides ruins, due not only to the Civil War, but to the 

 more recent fire and earthquake. It all seemed as if the 

 vengeance of Heaven had been wrought upon the city. 

 My sympathies were deeply enlisted ; I felt no anger over 

 the past, no exultation. I was taken to a home for Con- 



