IN THE UNITED STATES-1838-1875 385 



federate orphans and to another for widows, and in both 

 were pointed out to me members of families, now hope 

 lessly destitute, who before the war lived in luxury. In 

 no city, at home or abroad, have I ever seen a line of 

 stately mansions which seemed more fitting abodes for 

 wealth and culture than those upon the esplanade at 

 Charleston; in the days gone by a noble hospitality had 

 centered there, but all was now silent and distressed. 



On the 4th of March we arrived in Florida and found 

 it fascinating. Never before had I been farther south 

 upon the mainland of the United States than Charleston, 

 and never had I seen anything of this region, save when 

 the frigate bearing the Santo Domingo Commission 

 touched at Key West. Among the most characteristic 

 things at Jacksonville was a large church belonging to 

 the negro Baptists, who were evidently the leading sect. 

 The church was large, but unfinished, and a main fea 

 ture of every service was passing the hat for contribu 

 tions. The services were singular indeed. There was 

 one old negro pastor who, though he could read little, 

 if at all, had schooled himself to look into the Bible while 

 reciting parts of chapters, and to keep his eyes upon 

 the pages of his hymnal while repeating the hymns ; and 

 a very weighty function was the reading of notices 

 of every sort of social gathering, especial prominence 

 being given to meetings of fire-engine companies. The 

 number of Northern visitors was very large, and it was 

 evident that the negro managers of the congregation felt 

 the importance of keeping on good terms with all of them, 

 without regard to party ; for, on one occasion, as the pas 

 tor was giving these notices, slowly deciphering them, 

 with the aid of a younger minister, and reading them 

 mechanically, he began as follows: &quot;Dere will be a meet- 

 in of de Republikins of dis ward and instantly a num 

 ber of the brethren started to their feet, and put up 

 their hands with a long Hu-u-u-sh ! &quot; The preacher 

 was greatly embarrassed and passed on immediately to 

 &quot; There will be a meeting of No. 2 Fire Company,&quot; etc., 



II. -25 



