418 SUNDRY JOURNEYS AND EXPERIENCES -III 



tentative suggestion that he come and establish a Bene 

 dictine convent on Cayuga Lake, he told me that he should 

 probably be sent to Scotland. 



The renowned old monastery seems to be mindful of 

 its best traditions, for it has established within its walls 

 an admirably equipped printing-house, in which I was 

 able to secure for Cornell University copies of various 

 books by learned Benedictines some of them, by the 

 beauty of their workmanship, well worthy to be placed 

 beside the illuminated manuscripts which formerly came 

 from the Scriptoria. 



At Rome I was taken about by Lanciani, the eminent 

 archaeologist in control of the excavations, who showed 

 me beautiful things newly discovered and now kept in 

 temporary rooms near the Capitol. To my surprise, he 

 told me that there is absolutely no authentic bust of Ci 

 cero dating from his time ; but this was afterward denied 

 by Story, the American sculptor, who pointed out to me 

 a cast of one in his studio. Story spoke gloomily of the 

 condition of Italy, saying that formerly there were no 

 taxes, but that now the taxes are crushing. He added 

 that the greatest mistake made by the present Pope was 

 that, during the cholera at Naples, he remained in Rome, 

 while King Humbert went immediately to that city, 

 visited the hospitals, cheered the cholera-stricken, com 

 forted them, and supplied their wants. 



On Easter Sunday I saw Cardinal Howard celebrate 

 high mass in St. Peter s. He had been an English 

 guardsman, was magnificently dressed, and was the very 

 ideal of a proud prelate. The audience in the immediate 

 neighborhood of the altar were none too reverential, 

 and in other parts of the church were walking about and 

 talking as if in a market ; all of this irreverence remind 

 ing me of the high mass which I had seen celebrated by 

 Pope Pius IX at the same altar on Easter day of 1856. 



Calling on the former prime minister, Minghetti, who 

 had been an associate of Cavour, I found him very inter 

 esting, as was also Sambuy, senator of the kingdom and 



