FRANCE, ITALY, AND SWITZERLAND -1886-1887 425 



two, I decided to return to a milder climate. Passing by 

 Vevey, we visited our friends the Brunnows at their beau 

 tiful villa on the shore of Lake Leman, where my old 

 president at the University of Michigan, Dr. Tappan, 

 had died, and it was with a melancholy satisfaction that 

 I visited his grave in the cemetery hard by. 



Stopping at Geneva over Sunday, I observed at the 

 Cathedral of St. Peter, Calvin s old church, that the ser 

 mon and service carefully steered clear of the slightest 

 Trinitarian formula, as did the churches in Switzerland 

 generally. Considering that Calvin had burned Servetus 

 in that very city for his disbelief in the doctrine of the 

 Trinity, this omission would seem enough to make that 

 stern reformer turn in his grave. Returning to Paris, 

 I again met Lecky, who was making a short visit to the 

 French capital; and, as we were breakfasting together, 

 Mme. Blaze de Bury being present, our conversation 

 fell on Parisian mobs. She insisted that the studied in 

 action of the papal nuncio during the Commune caused 

 the murder of Darboy, Archbishop of Paris, who was 

 hated by the extreme clerical party on account of his 

 coolness toward infallibility and sundry other dogmas 

 advocated by the Jesuits. Lecky thought Lord Acton s 

 old article in the &quot; North British Review&quot; the best 

 statement yet made on the St. Bartholomew massacre. 

 The discussion having veered toward the Jewish ques 

 tion, which was even then rising, Lecky said that Shak- 

 spere probably never saw a Jew that Jews were not 

 allowed in England in his time, the only exceptions being 

 Queen Elizabeth s physician and, perhaps, a few others. 



During the latter part of September I started on an 

 architectural tour through the east of France, and was 

 more than ever fascinated by the beauty of all I found 

 at Soissons, Laon, Chalons, Troyes, and Eheims, the 

 cathedral at the latter place seeming even more grand 

 than when I last saw it. I have never been able to de 

 cide finally which is the more noble Amiens or Eheims ; 

 my temporary decision being generally in favor of that 



