EGYPT, GREECE, AND TURKEY 1888-1889 435 



no longer; and, having gone to the entrance of the 

 well and signaled to the men above, he was drawn up, 

 and, arriving at the surface, gasped out a command to 

 them all to leave him. He then sat down in the desert 

 to secure the calm required for further thought; and, 

 finally, having become more composed, returned to the 

 work, and the mummies of Eameses the Great and of 

 the other royal personages were taken from their tem 

 porary home, carried down the river, and placed in the 

 museum at Cairo. 



Another experience was of a very different sort. I 

 had passed a day with the Egyptian minister of public 

 instruction, Artin Pasha, at the great technical school 

 of Cairo, which, under the charge of an eminent French 

 engineer, is training admirably a considerable number 

 of Egyptians in various arts applied to industry; and, 

 at luncheon, I had noticed on the wall a portrait of the 

 Khedive, Tewfik Pasha, representing him as most com 

 manding in manner over six feet in height, and in a 

 gorgeous uniform. On the evening of that day I went 

 to dine with the Khedive, and, entering the reception- 

 rooms, found a large assemblage, and was welcomed by 

 a kindly little man with a pleasant face, and in the plain 

 est of uniforms, who, as I supposed, was the prime min 

 ister, Eiaz Pasha. His greeting was cordial, and we were 

 soon in close conversation, I giving him especially the 

 impressions made upon me by the school, asking ques 

 tions and making suggestions. He entered very heartily 

 into it all, and detained me long, I wondering constantly 

 where the Khedive might be. Presently, the great doors 

 having been flung open and dinner announced, each gen 

 tleman hastened to the lady assigned him, and all marched 

 out together, my thought being, This is the Oriental way 

 of entertaining strangers ; we shall, no doubt, find the sov 

 ereign on his throne at the table/ But, to my amaze 

 ment, the first place at the table was taken by the unas 

 suming little man with whom I had been talking so freely. 

 At first I was somewhat abashed, though the mistake 



