440 SUNDRY JOURNEYS AND EXPERIENCES -IV 



rived in Constantinople, where I made the acquaintance 

 of Mr. Straus, our minister at that capital. Thus began 

 a friendship which I have ever since greatly prized. Mr. 

 Straus introduced me to two of the most interesting 

 men I have ever met; the first of these being Hamdi Bey, 

 director of the Imperial Museum at Constantinople. 

 Meeting him at Mr. Straus s table and in his own house, 

 I heard him discuss sundry questions relating to modern 

 art better, in some respects, than any other person I 

 have ever known. Never have I heard more admirably 

 discriminating judgments upon yarious modern schools 

 of painting than those which he then gave me. 



The other person to whom Mr. Straus introduced me 

 was the British ambassador, Sir William White, who 

 was very hospitable, and revealed to me much in life and 

 literature. One thing especially surprised me namely, 

 that though a Roman Catholic, he had a great admiration 

 for Eenan s writings, of which he was a constant reader. 

 Here, too, I renewed my acquaintance with various mem 

 bers of the diplomatic corps whom I had met elsewhere. 

 Curious was an evening visit to the Russian Embassy, 

 Mrs. Straus being carried in a sedan-chair, her husband 

 walking beside her in evening dress at one door, I at 

 the other, and a kavass, with drawn sword, marching 

 at the head of the procession. 



While the Mohammedan history revealed in Constan 

 tinople gave me frequent subjects of thought, I was more 

 constantly carried back to the Byzantine period. For 

 there was the Church of St. Sophia ! No edifice has ever 

 impressed me more; indeed, in many respects, none has 

 ever impressed me so much. Bearing in mind its origin, 

 its history, and its architecture, it is doubtless the most in 

 teresting church in the world. Though smaller than St. 

 Peter s at Rome, it is vastly more impressive. Taking 

 into account the view as one enters, embracing the lofty 

 yaults retreating on all sides, the arches springing above 

 our heads, and, crowning all, the dome, which opens 

 fully upon the sight immediately upon passing the door- 



