CHAPTER LV 



MEXICO, CALIFORNIA, SCANDINAVIA, RUSSIA, ITALY, 

 LONDON, AND BERLIN 1892-1897 



REIVING at New York in the autumn of 1889, 1 was 

 soon settled at my accustomed work in the univer 

 sity, devoting myself to new chapters of my book and 

 to sundry courses of lectures. Early in the following 

 year I began a course before the University of Pennsyl 

 vania; and my stay in Philadelphia was rendered very 

 agreeable by various new acquaintances. Interesting to 

 me was the Roman Catholic archbishop, Dr. Ryan. Din 

 ing in his company, I referred admiringly to his cathe 

 dral, which I had recently visited, but spoke of what 

 seemed to me the defective mode of placing the dome 

 upon the building; whereupon he made one of the most 

 tolerable Latin puns I have ever heard, saying that dur 

 ing the construction of both the nave and the dome his 

 predecessors were hampered by lack of money, that, in 

 fact, they were greatly troubled by the res angusta domi. 

 Interesting also was attendance upon the conference at 

 Lake Mohonk, which brought together a large body of 

 leading men from all parts of the country to discuss the 

 best methods of dealing with questions relating to the 

 f reedmen and Indians. The president of the conference, 

 Mr. Hayes, formerly President of the United States, I 

 had known well in former days, when I served under 

 him as minister to Germany, and the high opinion I had 

 then formed of him was increased as I heard him dis 

 cuss the main questions before the conference. It was 

 the fashion at one time among blackguards and cynics of 



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