450 SUNDRY JOURNEYS AND EXPERIENCES-V 



journeys which interested me at that period. The first 

 of these was in the Scandinavian countries. The voyage 

 of a day and night across the Baltic through the Aland 

 Islands was like a dream, the northern twilight making 

 night more beautiful than day, and the approach to the 

 Swedish capital being, next to the approaches to Con 

 stantinople and to New York, the most beautiful I know. 



Very instructive to me was a visit to Upsala espe 

 cially to the university and cathedral. As to the former, 

 the &quot; Codex of Ulfilas,&quot; in the library, which I had long 

 desired to see, especially interested me ; and visits to the 

 houses of the various &quot;nations&quot; showed me that out 

 of the social needs of Swedish students in the middle 

 ages had been developed something closely akin to the 

 fraternity houses which similar needs have developed 

 in our time at American universities. The cathedral, 

 containing the remains of Gustavus Vasa and Linnaeus, 

 was fruitful in suggestions. By a curious coincidence 

 I was at that time finishing my chapter entitled &quot;From 

 Creation to Evolution,&quot; and had been paying special at 

 tention to the ancient and mediaeval conceptions of the 

 creation of the world as a work done by an individual 

 in human form, laboring with his hands during six days, 

 and taking needed rest on the seventh ; and here I found, 

 at the side entrance of the cathedral, a delightfully naive 

 mediaeval representation of the whole process, a series 

 of medallions representing the Almighty toiling like an 

 artisan on each of the six days and reposing, evidently 

 very weary, on the seventh. 



The journey across Sweden, through the canals and 

 lakes, was very restful. At Christiania Mr. Gade, the 

 American consul, who had served our country so long 

 and so honorably in that city, took me under his guid 

 ance during various interesting excursions about the 

 fiords. At Gothenburg I took pains to obtain informa 

 tion regarding their system of dealing with the sale of 

 intoxicating liquors, and became satisfied that it is, on 

 the whole, the best solution of the problem ever obtained. 



