SELECT LISTS OF PLANTS. 295 



ground in summer, and at any time when good plump buds can be 

 obtained, and the stocks are in condition to receive them. Grafting is 

 rarely practised in the open air, but splice grafting on pieces of roots of 

 some common variety is a convenient and rapid mode of increasing rare 

 varieties, the cuttings of which do not strike root readily. Cions of one 

 bud will answer, but if the wood is short jointed, two are better ; the 

 grafted roots being planted in boxes filled with sand or very light soil, 

 and afterwards given the same care as ordinary cuttings. This is a com- 

 mon mode of propagating Moss Hoses and other similar hard-wood 

 varieties. Most of the Climbing Roses, of both native and foreign origin 

 also the classes known under the name of Perpetual and Hybrid Per- 

 petuals are quite readily propagated by ripe wood cuttings, placed in a 

 cool greenhouse in autumn, or in protected frames in the open ground. 

 They are also readily increased by green cuttings taken from plants in 

 the open air, or from those forced under glass; the, short, spur-like 

 shoots, taken off with a heel, are preferable for this purpose to the more 

 vigorous and succulent wood. But the most simple method of propa- 

 gating Roses is by root cuttings, and there are very few species or varie- 

 ties that cannot be readily multiplied by cuttings of their roots. Some 

 species and varieties like the Moss Roses, Briars and common June 

 Roses usually considered difficult to propagate by layers and cuttings 

 of the shoots, grow very freely from pieces of their roots, if these are 

 given sufficient time to develop adventitious buds before attempting to 

 force them to produce new roots and stems. The time to make root 

 cuttings of hardy Roses is in the fall, as soon as the plants have been 

 checked by cool weather. The roots, or a part of them, may be removed 

 without digging up the entire plant, but it is better to lift the plants, 

 following out the roots to their ends, then cut away all those suitable 

 for cuttings the larger roots make the best, but those of not more than 

 one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter will answer and cut all up into 

 pieces of two to three inches in length. Pack these pieces between 

 layers of damp moss the common Sphagnum from the swamps and low 

 grounds is the best, but if this cannot be obtained, pure clean and sharp 

 sand may be used instead. These root cuttings may be packed in well- 

 drained boxes or large flower pots, or any similar vessel, but in all cases 

 they should be well drained and absolutely clean and free from any taint 

 or substance likely to generate or promote the growth of mildew and 

 mold. These boxes or other vessels containing the cuttings, may be 

 buried in a dry place in the open ground or set away in a cool cellar, 

 where they can be examined from time to time during the winter, for the 

 purpose of ascertaining their condition and giving water, if it should be 

 required. If buds push too rapidly, lower the temperature ; and if they 

 do not come forward as rapidly as is thought necessary, increase the 

 temperature, or remove to a warmer place. Root cuttings of some varie- 

 ties will push into growth under exactly the same conditions, where 

 others will remain quite dormant, and for this reason it is well to place 

 the cuttings where they can be examined. All that is necessary or 



